Sunday, August 2, 2015

A Little Bit of Dancin', a Little Bit of Beach, a Little Bit of City, Life is Just a Peach--( Puerto Rico, Pereira, & Cartagena)

OBJECTIVES

Summer Break, July, 2015. After an absolutely brutal year, where work, school , and record snowfall over Boston kept me so busy that I rarely had enough time to as much as catch up with friends, I was really looking forward to this trip…..Puerto Rico, and Pereira and Cartagena, Colombia. The plan was to enjoy a relaxing, tropical vacation, with a good friend, who I unfortunately do not have a chance to see much anymore, while also marrying off one of my best buddies, while also meeting new people, learning new things, exposing myself to different cultures, and exploring new places. This trip fulfilled all of my objectives. I spent quality time with some of my best friends. I made new ones… residents of small Caribbean Islands, people just 10 minute drive from my house in Boston, soccer prodigies, startup business owners, wounded Iraq and Afghanistan war veterans who told me about how the US government takes opium in Afghanistan and then sells it to big pharma, and of course, local Colombians and Puerto Ricans. The vacation was about weddings, parties, continued relationships….but also about new beginnings and unsought opportunities. It was about travel….by plane, car, foot, and ferry, but also by bike, ambulance, brujita, and garrucha. Sure, there were some bumps and bruises along the way (literally!). But this is what life is all about, isn’t it? We utilize our vacations from work to enjoy ourselves, make new memories, and form stronger connections. We make new friends. We catch up with old ones. We learn and appreciate new cultures and lifestyles. We try new things, go on adventures, enjoy natural beauty, make our own parties. Yes, sometimes we shall fall down. But we get back up. We deal with the pain and keep going, until we reach the finish line. Only then can we rest up, heal, go back to work….and get ready to do it all over again. This is how winners are made!


PUERTO RICO

Saturday Night: We arrived in this American territory, the only one where everyone speaks Spanish. Since 1917, Puerto Ricans have been granted American citizenship. This means that we could continue to show our licenses instead of our passports, and more importantly, that our phones could still be used to call and text without wi-fi. Puerto Rico may be going the way of Greece in terms of its tanking economy and debt issues, but you wouldn’t know if you check out the party scene, as we did this night. People here love to drink, dance, and party on the streets. Unfortunately, I soon discovered the hard way that girls here will refuse to dance with you if you don’t know salsa! And salsa is the ONLY music they play in Puerto Rico. It is a pity that we were not in San Juan on Friday night, though. Saturday night clubbing was fun and all, but on Friday nights, the streets with the bars and clubs are literally cordoned off, and the locals have crazy street parties, including loud music, dancing on the streets, and lots of drinking. It sounds just like Spring Brea, or the annual street parties at public colleges!

Sunday: We rented a car. The renting company seemed pretty determined to make me purchase their auto insurance; they demanded to see a copy of my policy! So after an hour of looking around online for my damn  policy, I finally found it, and could just use my own auto insurance (pro tip: being insured by your employer helps….you can also find confirmation emails in your work emails). After we finally got the car, we went down to the beach, except it started pouring for the entire day. Another bummer. We made the most of this by eating at some local bars, watching baseball and MLS soccer, and being entertained by the random bicyclists who cycled in with their stereos, and threw a dance party…..right on the  street! You guessed it…..lively, addicting salsa music! At a pizzeria, an ad to buy a house caught my house. A 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom house, on the beach, for just $180 K? Sign me up!

Monday: Beach day! We travelled to Flamenco Beach, ranked as the 3rd best beach in the world, according to Trip Advisor. Good luck getting here, though! You need to stand in line at 4 AM (yes, 4 AM, not a typo), just to purchase the ferry ticket! Or, you could do what we did, which is arrive at 8:45 AM, find out all of the tickets are sold out, and fly in via private plane, while enjoying the beauty of Flamenco Beach from up in the sky. Getting here was totally worth it. Few things in life are better than a beer with friends, on white, clean sand, overlooking a green-blue, ocean, with a smooth sandy bottom, as the sun glimmers like gold over the waves. Actually, yes, one thing is better….snorkeling on the nearby Tamarindo Beach, seeing all kinds of reefs, fish, even giant sea turtles. It was just a fun, relaxing day at the beach. After such a hectic 2015, I needed a day to myself to just chill out, hang out with friends and relax, and boy did I get it. When you go to Puerto Rico, ignore the city beaches, they suck. (the ocean is rocky, and they cordon off the swimming area; also the beach areas are small) Plan a trip to the islands, where there are some of the best beachesin the world!

Tuesday: Time to get drunk on the Bacardi tour! Although the Bacardi family originally started their business in Cuba, their distillery is now in San Juan, Puerto Rico. The business immigrated shortly after Fidel Castro made Cuba Communist, and his government started taking private property and profits. Cuba’s loss is our gain! We received a full tour of how Bacardis are made, and the steps in the process to make one of my favorite rums. I was amazed at how much equipment is required to make rum, and especially by how large the factory was…..making rum takes up lots of space! The best part was the opportunity to make our own drinks, though. I made 3 different Bacardi drinks (yes, I obviously drank them all myself), and I even have the diploma to prove my new degree in Bacardi brewing! Who said you can’t earn a new degree, while on vacation! So….who wants me to make you a drink?

Wednesday Last day in Puerto Rico. What better way to spend the last day before our flight out to Pereira, than to explore Old San Juan! The city was founded in 1508, by  the conquistador Juan Ponce de Leon. It is surrounded by a fort, which the Spaniards build to ward off their European rivals and pirates. A military cemetery abuts the fort, just outside of the Atlantic Ocean. Wow, what a city! Gorgeous architecture, with so many colorful, old buildings. Narrow streets filled with shops, Spanish-style, as I’m told. Old San Juan is just a wonderful place to walk around, do some shopping, enjoy nature, and marvel at the beauty of architecture. It is open late at night if cruise ships are in, but closes early on days when there are none.

PEREIRA, COLOMBIA

Thursday started off nice and early, as we all hopped on the bus, made new friends, and went down to Salento, a suburb of Pereira, Colombia. This town was once a primary route from Popayán to Bogotá, over the Quindío Pass ( "La Línea"), but was only established as an official town in 1842. Salento is such a pretty little town! We walked along the streets of this typical Colombian community, checking out the shops, as we walked up a staircase in the Andes Mountains. From the top, we were treated to a spectacular bird’s eye view of the town. So may rooftops, all perfectly aligned with the streets! We also got the opportunity to try out Colombia’s number one specialty, coffee. Black, sugar, much caffeine little caffeine…..so many options to choose from!

Before going on a serene hike in the Cocora Valley, looking up at the lovely Andes Mountains and enjoying the waterfall, we planted trees, for various reasons. With these trees, we wish for peace between Russia and Ukraine. We hope for better relations between Russia and the USA. We desire Colombians to enjoy the same standard of living as the Germans appreciate. With these trees, we pray for friendship over conflict, for tolerance over division, for leaders to show the courage to unite the people of the world, rather than continue using us as political pawns by dividing us. With these trees, we call for understanding and friendship between the Russians, Ukrainians, Americans, Germans, Colombians, Indians, Chinese, Brits, and all other nationalities not represented by our party, Not just for a wedding, or for a week, let’s build better relationships with all of the people in the world, forever!

The hike up the Cocora Valley was fun. It’s a serene nature walk, surrounded by the Andes Mountains and these tall palm-like trees, called “wax palms”. We went up to the waterfall, where we crossed this small bridge to enjoy the view. After taking a break for some quality dinner at an authentic Colombian restaurant, we hopped back on the bus and went down to the hot springs, in the Andes Mountains. Despite the chilly temperatures, the hot springs were actually quite pleasant for swimming, relaxing, and socializing. Historically, various people, from the ancient Greeks and Romans, to Russian czars and their families, have gone to hot springs to cure various  physical and mental ailments. Many recovered from their illnesses, and it’s no surprise. The hot springs are relaxing. They are soothing. They are therapeutic. Just sit back and enjoy. Or go down under the waterfall, if you’re feeling particulary adventurous. Once I got out, I did not even feel cold anymore.,…but I did feel healthy, happy, and in good spirits!

Friday: The morning started off with a tour of a coffee farm. We were shown how various brands of coffee are produced, and how it is inspected for quality. It was a cool experience. Along with humans, dogs and peacocks coexist on this farm, seemingly unafraid of strangers. While I personally am a city guy, who would quickly tire of the farm lifer, there is something beautiful and romantic about living out of town, making your own food, and not being dependent on anyone else to survive. The people who made coffee on this farm were clearly enjoying their work, and were so passionate in sharing their knowledge with us.

The rest of the day was supposed to be a dress rehearsal for the wedding. Except, the guests had no clue what they were supposed to be doing for the wedding! While waiting for the bus, some friends and I ran into a childhood friend of Juliana’s (the bride) mother, except he told us was an uncle. He, in turn, thought that we were supposed to go to the church for the rehearsal, and so drove us there, except nobody was at the church! So we drove back and drank rum with him instead, until the dinner. The language barrier was kinda an issue! Finally, at the dinner, everyone socialized some more, drank, and had a jolly good time, calling it an early day, excited for the big day tomorrow.

Saturday: Finally, the big wedding day! It started off lazily enough with me just chilling by the pool the entire morning and much of early afternoon. Little did I know how much energy I would need to make it through the day! After the deeply Catholic wedding at the church, the party began. There were hired dancers, performing traditional Pereiran folk dances. After dinner though, it was our turn to dance. And drink Auguardiente, the Colombian vodka. Straight up shots. 2-3 times. One after the other. On multiple occasions. Let me tell you something. I have been to numerous weddings, and NONE were more fun than this one! We took funny photos in silly costumes. We put on pretty little lights, giant glittery hats, and wigs, and danced the night away. Colombian music. Russian. American. Indian. Today’s hits The 90s. The Macarena (really). And took more shots of Auguardiente, deep into the early morning, where extremely inebriated, we went back to sleep off our hangover, after experiencing one of the best parties of our lives. I don’t think  ever had such a fun night….and the bar is set extremely high to entertain at my own wedding!

While wedding parties are fun, let’s remember the real reason why we were all here. It is to celebrate 2 people who are in love. What is true love? It is surviving through all of the distractions of 4 years of college, and still coming out in the same relationship. It is continuing to build the relationship long-distance, despite the inconvenience of commuting between Boston and Connecticut (closer to the NY side). It is the challenge of the guy getting suddenly laid off, needing to leave the USA, and starting a new life in Germany…and the girl saying goodbye to her family and friends, packing her bags, and joining her lover to start a new life together, in a new country, on a new continent. That’s true love. That’s commitment. Anton and Juliana, congratulations on getting married! It is clear that your love for each other is so strong that nothing will tear it apart, and I wish you much health and happiness together. May you have a long-lasting marriage, filled with passion, adventure, and excitement. Thank you for sharing this happy moment with me and allowing me to play a small part in your love for each other.
As you prepare for the next chapter of your lives together, just know that I shall always support you, and be there for you every step of the way….just let’s continue to keep in touch, and meet up again sometime soon!

Sunday: What does one do the morning after a heavy night of drinking and partying, at 7 AM? Sleep in, nursing your hangover, lazily lounging by the pool in the afternoon? Nope! Enjoy the beautiful views of the Andes Mountains by going on a bike ride, followed by a hike, of course! Just one problem. I have never mountain biked. It takes practice, and it takes some getting used to….but before you succeed, you fall. And fall I did, bruising most of my left arm, the palm on my right hand, and most painful of all, spraining and straining my right wrist, which I’m still which I’m still currently recovering from. But you know what? I got back up on the bike. And I did not fall off again. While I did not finish the bike ride out of consideration for the rest of my group, as I did not want to slow down the experienced riders in my group, who clearly wanted to go faster, I gave it my best. Tomorrow is a new day. I might fall again, I might once again be in much pain, but I will get up, and fight to finish the race! Time to practice some mountain biking!

Having rested and gotten used to the pain in the Jeep a little bit, I joined the others to continue our adventures. First, we took the brujita to the river. A brujita is a cart on tracks, which is powerd by a motorcycle. In what seems like a scene form a fiction movie, when 2 brujitas move in opposite directions, everyone gets off one of them, one of the brujitas is lifted right off the tracks, the other one continues along its merry way, and then the brujita that was lifted gets placed back on the racks, and continues on its journey. Then, to cross the river, we took the, garrucha where laborers pull a cart, by hand, via rope, across the river. Basically, transportation in Pereira seems like very laborious work!  The locals come here to camp on the weekends, but we hiked up the Andes Mountains, braving the winding roads and the treacherous turns and streams to reach the springs, where we took a dip in our undies, not having brought swimming suits. On the way back, we drank a Colombian beer named “Poker” (you know I’m bringing one to the next casino!), and had to recycle the empty bottles back into the shops’ freezer. It’s more economic….the empty bottles are reused (and hopefully washed well!), saving money! The hike was difficult with all my painful injuries, but this just made it more interesting. Unable to utilize my right palm, or much of my left arm, I had to great creative and improvise my steps. Strategy with endurance, calculations before decision-making. On the way back, we drank a Colombian beer named “Poker” (you know I’m bringing one to the next casino!), and had to recycle the empty bottles back into the shops’ freezer. It’s more economic….the empty bottles are reused (and hopefully washed well!), saving money!

After our morning exercise, it was time to explore the city of Pereira. Not much to see, though. There are a bunch of casinos, but make no mistake, this is no Vegas. The casinos have a bunch of bingo-like tables, all numbered. No, we did not play….something called a language barrier and a lack of time. We also went to a local café and ordered 6 types of different juices. We enjoyed the “maracuya” ( made form a South American ‘passion flower’and the “guayaba” (made of guava, a tropical fruit), were neutral on the “Curuba”(made out of bananas), and disliked the “Tomato de Arbol (a tomato juice)” and the “Araza” ( a type of fruit found in the Amazonian rainforest).

When I got back to the hotel, my friends freaked out about my injuries and peer pressured me to see a medic. So I called form one up at the hotel, and he took a look and said that all of my injuries were “artificial”, which was great news. Oh, also, my mom emailed and called. I had to get back to her, and she already knew that I went biking because one of my friends told her…..so a fun conversation, as you can imagine! The shower was some of the most painful stuff I’ve ever had to go through, though. My bruises were in excruciating pain form the soap, but thankfully this was just a one-time thing, and there was no more such pain when I showered the next day.

Monday and Tuesday: I spent these 2 days at the Hotel Sonesta, recuperating from my injuries. Except not really, as I made the mistake of playing tennis on Monday (remember the medic cleared me), which just made my wrist hurt more. On Tuesday, since we were about to fly out to Cartagena, I was convinced to have the medic check up on me just in case, better be safe than sorry! And they freaked me out when the nurse said that my wrist might be broken, gave me a shot in the buttocks, and told me to go to the hospital! So we went via ambulance. On the way there, we got to see some more of downtown Pereira. At one point, a motorcycle crashed in the back our ambulance! We almost made new company at our ambulance party, but the guy on the bike pulled it out from underneath the ambulance, and then just drove away, as if nothing happened! At the hospital, my hand was X-rayed, and I found out I “only” had a sprain and a strain. The doc wrapped up my hand, gave me some anti-bacterial drugs and some painkillers (which I didn’t use, as the pain was going away) and discharged me.

Compare the costs of urgent care in Colombia to the US. In the USA, an ambulance ride alone costs about $1,500 K. An X-ray costs $190 for a wrist. Also, a doctor seeing you for 15 minutes, about the time I was seen is about $100. Pills in the USA cost about $80 per bottle (the cost for Travelers’ Diarrhea pills, for example). In Colombia, the ambulance ride was 100% FREE. Total urgent care costs for everything was just $160. 4 different pills cost just $20 bucks, combined. Difference: $2,000 in the USA-$180 in Pereira. It just goes to show that the US has a broken health care system. By failing to regulate the prices of pills, we basically subsidize prices for the whole world, as pharmaceutical companies must keep below a certain price ceiling in most countries, so make up profits in the US by artificially inflating prices. Meanwhile, ambulance companies, hospitals, and doctors all want a piece of their pie, too Clearly changes to the American health system need to be made…not just to insurance, but to the costs of the hospital process, and especially pharmatheutical prices….

CARTAGENA:

Wednesday and Thursday: Cartegena became independent from Spain on November 11th, 1811, and the number “11” is   very significant to them, so it was quite fitting that our plane landed at 11 PM!. The plan was to see the city of Cartagena on Thursday, then go to the beaches on Elephant Island on Friday. However the thunderstorm on Thursday, which lasted for several hours, put the dampers on this plan. We were stuck at the hostel till the night, when we went to the square and took a horse-and-buggy ride. Speaking of horses, I learned a cool fact about equestrian statues…one leg off the ground means that the rider died of unnatural causes (i.e. disease, duels, etc), 2 legs symbolize a death in battle, and all 4 legs on the ground tells us that the rider died of natural causes (old age). Unfortunately though, since it gets dark in Cartagena at 6b PM, we did not see much of the city on Wednesday, though we did end up at a pretty cool bar. Except I couldn’t drink due to the anti-bacterial medication I was taking to nurse my bruises form getting infected….bummer!

On Thursday, the weather was much nicer, so we took a 2 hour tour. It quickly became apparent  why Cartagena is the only city in the world that is a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are so many brightly colored houses, lining typical Spanish-style narrow streets. On some of the huge windows, there are balconies full of flowers! Around the city is a fort (Spaniard colonists always built forts to protect themselves from other Europeans and pirates), which overlooks the ocean. Climb up, and you can see the ocean, with highscrapers in the distance from one side, and like the only parking lot in the city (if you drive in Cartagena, may God have mercy on your soul) and if you turn around, rows of brightly colored houses in the opposite direction. I was surprised and amused that the people of Cartegena have basically stopped using libraries, instead preferring to use their phones or laptops! As our tour guide explained, the only library in town is owned by a bank, and on a good day, maybe 7 people would visit….of whom 5 are there for the free Wi-fi and the air conditioning! One of the coolest things about Cartegena are the door knockers. Door knockers symbolize your career; a lion knocker represents a warrior, a mermaid a fisherman, an owl a teacher, a hand a priest or nun, etc. Also, the better you know someone, the more you knock; strangers knock just once, friends up to 4 times.

TAKEAWAYS AND LESSONS LEARNED

I really enjoyed my break in Puerto Rico and Cartegena. The people were so friendly! They showed me how to salsa, and taught me Spanish. They took me clubbing in their own cars, made sure we weren’t cheated, and watched our backs. They came up to drink with us. Everywhere I’ve been, the people were laid-back, relaxed, and up for a conversation, language barriers overcome by Google Translate. There might be economic ,problems in Puerto Rico, or issues with drugs and violence in Colombia (well-publicized, but got better, recently), but it doesn’t mean that we need to stop living! Puerto Ricans and Columbians love to party, love a good time, and love making new friends. Such nice people!

The city centers of Old San Juan and especially my favorite, Cartagena, are delightful to walk around in. So much color and history, so many pretty sites! Also decent locations for shopping, local restaurants and pubs, and a great way to meet people. Few things beat the beauty of the Andes Mountains, though. Just some stunning views of nature. Calms the nerves. Distresses from all of the work and school drama. Everyone should go for a Jeep drive, a bike, and a hike here, and explore the beautiful nature, while getting some exercise. Your health, both physical and mental, will thank you for it later!


I would like to thank the Panovs for being such gracious and wonderful hosts, showing us the best nature Pereira has to offer, and for putting us up at the Sonesta Hotel, where we had everything to spend some comfortable nights, and especially for allowing me to be a part of this special occasion for the two of you. I would also like to thank Alok, not only  for being such an awesome travel companion, finding cheap flights, and hostels with the best views and people, but for convincing me to see a doctor to treat my injuries, and then going to the hospital with me and even helping me buy my pills. Also, thank you Andres Ospina and his wife for showing us the best party spots in Pereira, while making sure that we have a good time and make it safe back to out hotel, as well as taking the time to come to the airport to say goodbye to us.  Finally to all of the new friends I’ve made, we shall hang out again soon. It doesn’t matter if you live in Colombia, San Martin, India, or Boston, I have no doubt that we shall go on a trip together someday. This is not a goodbye, just a see ya later!