Sunday, August 2, 2015

A Little Bit of Dancin', a Little Bit of Beach, a Little Bit of City, Life is Just a Peach--( Puerto Rico, Pereira, & Cartagena)

OBJECTIVES

Summer Break, July, 2015. After an absolutely brutal year, where work, school , and record snowfall over Boston kept me so busy that I rarely had enough time to as much as catch up with friends, I was really looking forward to this trip…..Puerto Rico, and Pereira and Cartagena, Colombia. The plan was to enjoy a relaxing, tropical vacation, with a good friend, who I unfortunately do not have a chance to see much anymore, while also marrying off one of my best buddies, while also meeting new people, learning new things, exposing myself to different cultures, and exploring new places. This trip fulfilled all of my objectives. I spent quality time with some of my best friends. I made new ones… residents of small Caribbean Islands, people just 10 minute drive from my house in Boston, soccer prodigies, startup business owners, wounded Iraq and Afghanistan war veterans who told me about how the US government takes opium in Afghanistan and then sells it to big pharma, and of course, local Colombians and Puerto Ricans. The vacation was about weddings, parties, continued relationships….but also about new beginnings and unsought opportunities. It was about travel….by plane, car, foot, and ferry, but also by bike, ambulance, brujita, and garrucha. Sure, there were some bumps and bruises along the way (literally!). But this is what life is all about, isn’t it? We utilize our vacations from work to enjoy ourselves, make new memories, and form stronger connections. We make new friends. We catch up with old ones. We learn and appreciate new cultures and lifestyles. We try new things, go on adventures, enjoy natural beauty, make our own parties. Yes, sometimes we shall fall down. But we get back up. We deal with the pain and keep going, until we reach the finish line. Only then can we rest up, heal, go back to work….and get ready to do it all over again. This is how winners are made!


PUERTO RICO

Saturday Night: We arrived in this American territory, the only one where everyone speaks Spanish. Since 1917, Puerto Ricans have been granted American citizenship. This means that we could continue to show our licenses instead of our passports, and more importantly, that our phones could still be used to call and text without wi-fi. Puerto Rico may be going the way of Greece in terms of its tanking economy and debt issues, but you wouldn’t know if you check out the party scene, as we did this night. People here love to drink, dance, and party on the streets. Unfortunately, I soon discovered the hard way that girls here will refuse to dance with you if you don’t know salsa! And salsa is the ONLY music they play in Puerto Rico. It is a pity that we were not in San Juan on Friday night, though. Saturday night clubbing was fun and all, but on Friday nights, the streets with the bars and clubs are literally cordoned off, and the locals have crazy street parties, including loud music, dancing on the streets, and lots of drinking. It sounds just like Spring Brea, or the annual street parties at public colleges!

Sunday: We rented a car. The renting company seemed pretty determined to make me purchase their auto insurance; they demanded to see a copy of my policy! So after an hour of looking around online for my damn  policy, I finally found it, and could just use my own auto insurance (pro tip: being insured by your employer helps….you can also find confirmation emails in your work emails). After we finally got the car, we went down to the beach, except it started pouring for the entire day. Another bummer. We made the most of this by eating at some local bars, watching baseball and MLS soccer, and being entertained by the random bicyclists who cycled in with their stereos, and threw a dance party…..right on the  street! You guessed it…..lively, addicting salsa music! At a pizzeria, an ad to buy a house caught my house. A 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom house, on the beach, for just $180 K? Sign me up!

Monday: Beach day! We travelled to Flamenco Beach, ranked as the 3rd best beach in the world, according to Trip Advisor. Good luck getting here, though! You need to stand in line at 4 AM (yes, 4 AM, not a typo), just to purchase the ferry ticket! Or, you could do what we did, which is arrive at 8:45 AM, find out all of the tickets are sold out, and fly in via private plane, while enjoying the beauty of Flamenco Beach from up in the sky. Getting here was totally worth it. Few things in life are better than a beer with friends, on white, clean sand, overlooking a green-blue, ocean, with a smooth sandy bottom, as the sun glimmers like gold over the waves. Actually, yes, one thing is better….snorkeling on the nearby Tamarindo Beach, seeing all kinds of reefs, fish, even giant sea turtles. It was just a fun, relaxing day at the beach. After such a hectic 2015, I needed a day to myself to just chill out, hang out with friends and relax, and boy did I get it. When you go to Puerto Rico, ignore the city beaches, they suck. (the ocean is rocky, and they cordon off the swimming area; also the beach areas are small) Plan a trip to the islands, where there are some of the best beachesin the world!

Tuesday: Time to get drunk on the Bacardi tour! Although the Bacardi family originally started their business in Cuba, their distillery is now in San Juan, Puerto Rico. The business immigrated shortly after Fidel Castro made Cuba Communist, and his government started taking private property and profits. Cuba’s loss is our gain! We received a full tour of how Bacardis are made, and the steps in the process to make one of my favorite rums. I was amazed at how much equipment is required to make rum, and especially by how large the factory was…..making rum takes up lots of space! The best part was the opportunity to make our own drinks, though. I made 3 different Bacardi drinks (yes, I obviously drank them all myself), and I even have the diploma to prove my new degree in Bacardi brewing! Who said you can’t earn a new degree, while on vacation! So….who wants me to make you a drink?

Wednesday Last day in Puerto Rico. What better way to spend the last day before our flight out to Pereira, than to explore Old San Juan! The city was founded in 1508, by  the conquistador Juan Ponce de Leon. It is surrounded by a fort, which the Spaniards build to ward off their European rivals and pirates. A military cemetery abuts the fort, just outside of the Atlantic Ocean. Wow, what a city! Gorgeous architecture, with so many colorful, old buildings. Narrow streets filled with shops, Spanish-style, as I’m told. Old San Juan is just a wonderful place to walk around, do some shopping, enjoy nature, and marvel at the beauty of architecture. It is open late at night if cruise ships are in, but closes early on days when there are none.

PEREIRA, COLOMBIA

Thursday started off nice and early, as we all hopped on the bus, made new friends, and went down to Salento, a suburb of Pereira, Colombia. This town was once a primary route from Popayán to Bogotá, over the Quindío Pass ( "La Línea"), but was only established as an official town in 1842. Salento is such a pretty little town! We walked along the streets of this typical Colombian community, checking out the shops, as we walked up a staircase in the Andes Mountains. From the top, we were treated to a spectacular bird’s eye view of the town. So may rooftops, all perfectly aligned with the streets! We also got the opportunity to try out Colombia’s number one specialty, coffee. Black, sugar, much caffeine little caffeine…..so many options to choose from!

Before going on a serene hike in the Cocora Valley, looking up at the lovely Andes Mountains and enjoying the waterfall, we planted trees, for various reasons. With these trees, we wish for peace between Russia and Ukraine. We hope for better relations between Russia and the USA. We desire Colombians to enjoy the same standard of living as the Germans appreciate. With these trees, we pray for friendship over conflict, for tolerance over division, for leaders to show the courage to unite the people of the world, rather than continue using us as political pawns by dividing us. With these trees, we call for understanding and friendship between the Russians, Ukrainians, Americans, Germans, Colombians, Indians, Chinese, Brits, and all other nationalities not represented by our party, Not just for a wedding, or for a week, let’s build better relationships with all of the people in the world, forever!

The hike up the Cocora Valley was fun. It’s a serene nature walk, surrounded by the Andes Mountains and these tall palm-like trees, called “wax palms”. We went up to the waterfall, where we crossed this small bridge to enjoy the view. After taking a break for some quality dinner at an authentic Colombian restaurant, we hopped back on the bus and went down to the hot springs, in the Andes Mountains. Despite the chilly temperatures, the hot springs were actually quite pleasant for swimming, relaxing, and socializing. Historically, various people, from the ancient Greeks and Romans, to Russian czars and their families, have gone to hot springs to cure various  physical and mental ailments. Many recovered from their illnesses, and it’s no surprise. The hot springs are relaxing. They are soothing. They are therapeutic. Just sit back and enjoy. Or go down under the waterfall, if you’re feeling particulary adventurous. Once I got out, I did not even feel cold anymore.,…but I did feel healthy, happy, and in good spirits!

Friday: The morning started off with a tour of a coffee farm. We were shown how various brands of coffee are produced, and how it is inspected for quality. It was a cool experience. Along with humans, dogs and peacocks coexist on this farm, seemingly unafraid of strangers. While I personally am a city guy, who would quickly tire of the farm lifer, there is something beautiful and romantic about living out of town, making your own food, and not being dependent on anyone else to survive. The people who made coffee on this farm were clearly enjoying their work, and were so passionate in sharing their knowledge with us.

The rest of the day was supposed to be a dress rehearsal for the wedding. Except, the guests had no clue what they were supposed to be doing for the wedding! While waiting for the bus, some friends and I ran into a childhood friend of Juliana’s (the bride) mother, except he told us was an uncle. He, in turn, thought that we were supposed to go to the church for the rehearsal, and so drove us there, except nobody was at the church! So we drove back and drank rum with him instead, until the dinner. The language barrier was kinda an issue! Finally, at the dinner, everyone socialized some more, drank, and had a jolly good time, calling it an early day, excited for the big day tomorrow.

Saturday: Finally, the big wedding day! It started off lazily enough with me just chilling by the pool the entire morning and much of early afternoon. Little did I know how much energy I would need to make it through the day! After the deeply Catholic wedding at the church, the party began. There were hired dancers, performing traditional Pereiran folk dances. After dinner though, it was our turn to dance. And drink Auguardiente, the Colombian vodka. Straight up shots. 2-3 times. One after the other. On multiple occasions. Let me tell you something. I have been to numerous weddings, and NONE were more fun than this one! We took funny photos in silly costumes. We put on pretty little lights, giant glittery hats, and wigs, and danced the night away. Colombian music. Russian. American. Indian. Today’s hits The 90s. The Macarena (really). And took more shots of Auguardiente, deep into the early morning, where extremely inebriated, we went back to sleep off our hangover, after experiencing one of the best parties of our lives. I don’t think  ever had such a fun night….and the bar is set extremely high to entertain at my own wedding!

While wedding parties are fun, let’s remember the real reason why we were all here. It is to celebrate 2 people who are in love. What is true love? It is surviving through all of the distractions of 4 years of college, and still coming out in the same relationship. It is continuing to build the relationship long-distance, despite the inconvenience of commuting between Boston and Connecticut (closer to the NY side). It is the challenge of the guy getting suddenly laid off, needing to leave the USA, and starting a new life in Germany…and the girl saying goodbye to her family and friends, packing her bags, and joining her lover to start a new life together, in a new country, on a new continent. That’s true love. That’s commitment. Anton and Juliana, congratulations on getting married! It is clear that your love for each other is so strong that nothing will tear it apart, and I wish you much health and happiness together. May you have a long-lasting marriage, filled with passion, adventure, and excitement. Thank you for sharing this happy moment with me and allowing me to play a small part in your love for each other.
As you prepare for the next chapter of your lives together, just know that I shall always support you, and be there for you every step of the way….just let’s continue to keep in touch, and meet up again sometime soon!

Sunday: What does one do the morning after a heavy night of drinking and partying, at 7 AM? Sleep in, nursing your hangover, lazily lounging by the pool in the afternoon? Nope! Enjoy the beautiful views of the Andes Mountains by going on a bike ride, followed by a hike, of course! Just one problem. I have never mountain biked. It takes practice, and it takes some getting used to….but before you succeed, you fall. And fall I did, bruising most of my left arm, the palm on my right hand, and most painful of all, spraining and straining my right wrist, which I’m still which I’m still currently recovering from. But you know what? I got back up on the bike. And I did not fall off again. While I did not finish the bike ride out of consideration for the rest of my group, as I did not want to slow down the experienced riders in my group, who clearly wanted to go faster, I gave it my best. Tomorrow is a new day. I might fall again, I might once again be in much pain, but I will get up, and fight to finish the race! Time to practice some mountain biking!

Having rested and gotten used to the pain in the Jeep a little bit, I joined the others to continue our adventures. First, we took the brujita to the river. A brujita is a cart on tracks, which is powerd by a motorcycle. In what seems like a scene form a fiction movie, when 2 brujitas move in opposite directions, everyone gets off one of them, one of the brujitas is lifted right off the tracks, the other one continues along its merry way, and then the brujita that was lifted gets placed back on the racks, and continues on its journey. Then, to cross the river, we took the, garrucha where laborers pull a cart, by hand, via rope, across the river. Basically, transportation in Pereira seems like very laborious work!  The locals come here to camp on the weekends, but we hiked up the Andes Mountains, braving the winding roads and the treacherous turns and streams to reach the springs, where we took a dip in our undies, not having brought swimming suits. On the way back, we drank a Colombian beer named “Poker” (you know I’m bringing one to the next casino!), and had to recycle the empty bottles back into the shops’ freezer. It’s more economic….the empty bottles are reused (and hopefully washed well!), saving money! The hike was difficult with all my painful injuries, but this just made it more interesting. Unable to utilize my right palm, or much of my left arm, I had to great creative and improvise my steps. Strategy with endurance, calculations before decision-making. On the way back, we drank a Colombian beer named “Poker” (you know I’m bringing one to the next casino!), and had to recycle the empty bottles back into the shops’ freezer. It’s more economic….the empty bottles are reused (and hopefully washed well!), saving money!

After our morning exercise, it was time to explore the city of Pereira. Not much to see, though. There are a bunch of casinos, but make no mistake, this is no Vegas. The casinos have a bunch of bingo-like tables, all numbered. No, we did not play….something called a language barrier and a lack of time. We also went to a local café and ordered 6 types of different juices. We enjoyed the “maracuya” ( made form a South American ‘passion flower’and the “guayaba” (made of guava, a tropical fruit), were neutral on the “Curuba”(made out of bananas), and disliked the “Tomato de Arbol (a tomato juice)” and the “Araza” ( a type of fruit found in the Amazonian rainforest).

When I got back to the hotel, my friends freaked out about my injuries and peer pressured me to see a medic. So I called form one up at the hotel, and he took a look and said that all of my injuries were “artificial”, which was great news. Oh, also, my mom emailed and called. I had to get back to her, and she already knew that I went biking because one of my friends told her…..so a fun conversation, as you can imagine! The shower was some of the most painful stuff I’ve ever had to go through, though. My bruises were in excruciating pain form the soap, but thankfully this was just a one-time thing, and there was no more such pain when I showered the next day.

Monday and Tuesday: I spent these 2 days at the Hotel Sonesta, recuperating from my injuries. Except not really, as I made the mistake of playing tennis on Monday (remember the medic cleared me), which just made my wrist hurt more. On Tuesday, since we were about to fly out to Cartagena, I was convinced to have the medic check up on me just in case, better be safe than sorry! And they freaked me out when the nurse said that my wrist might be broken, gave me a shot in the buttocks, and told me to go to the hospital! So we went via ambulance. On the way there, we got to see some more of downtown Pereira. At one point, a motorcycle crashed in the back our ambulance! We almost made new company at our ambulance party, but the guy on the bike pulled it out from underneath the ambulance, and then just drove away, as if nothing happened! At the hospital, my hand was X-rayed, and I found out I “only” had a sprain and a strain. The doc wrapped up my hand, gave me some anti-bacterial drugs and some painkillers (which I didn’t use, as the pain was going away) and discharged me.

Compare the costs of urgent care in Colombia to the US. In the USA, an ambulance ride alone costs about $1,500 K. An X-ray costs $190 for a wrist. Also, a doctor seeing you for 15 minutes, about the time I was seen is about $100. Pills in the USA cost about $80 per bottle (the cost for Travelers’ Diarrhea pills, for example). In Colombia, the ambulance ride was 100% FREE. Total urgent care costs for everything was just $160. 4 different pills cost just $20 bucks, combined. Difference: $2,000 in the USA-$180 in Pereira. It just goes to show that the US has a broken health care system. By failing to regulate the prices of pills, we basically subsidize prices for the whole world, as pharmaceutical companies must keep below a certain price ceiling in most countries, so make up profits in the US by artificially inflating prices. Meanwhile, ambulance companies, hospitals, and doctors all want a piece of their pie, too Clearly changes to the American health system need to be made…not just to insurance, but to the costs of the hospital process, and especially pharmatheutical prices….

CARTAGENA:

Wednesday and Thursday: Cartegena became independent from Spain on November 11th, 1811, and the number “11” is   very significant to them, so it was quite fitting that our plane landed at 11 PM!. The plan was to see the city of Cartagena on Thursday, then go to the beaches on Elephant Island on Friday. However the thunderstorm on Thursday, which lasted for several hours, put the dampers on this plan. We were stuck at the hostel till the night, when we went to the square and took a horse-and-buggy ride. Speaking of horses, I learned a cool fact about equestrian statues…one leg off the ground means that the rider died of unnatural causes (i.e. disease, duels, etc), 2 legs symbolize a death in battle, and all 4 legs on the ground tells us that the rider died of natural causes (old age). Unfortunately though, since it gets dark in Cartagena at 6b PM, we did not see much of the city on Wednesday, though we did end up at a pretty cool bar. Except I couldn’t drink due to the anti-bacterial medication I was taking to nurse my bruises form getting infected….bummer!

On Thursday, the weather was much nicer, so we took a 2 hour tour. It quickly became apparent  why Cartagena is the only city in the world that is a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are so many brightly colored houses, lining typical Spanish-style narrow streets. On some of the huge windows, there are balconies full of flowers! Around the city is a fort (Spaniard colonists always built forts to protect themselves from other Europeans and pirates), which overlooks the ocean. Climb up, and you can see the ocean, with highscrapers in the distance from one side, and like the only parking lot in the city (if you drive in Cartagena, may God have mercy on your soul) and if you turn around, rows of brightly colored houses in the opposite direction. I was surprised and amused that the people of Cartegena have basically stopped using libraries, instead preferring to use their phones or laptops! As our tour guide explained, the only library in town is owned by a bank, and on a good day, maybe 7 people would visit….of whom 5 are there for the free Wi-fi and the air conditioning! One of the coolest things about Cartegena are the door knockers. Door knockers symbolize your career; a lion knocker represents a warrior, a mermaid a fisherman, an owl a teacher, a hand a priest or nun, etc. Also, the better you know someone, the more you knock; strangers knock just once, friends up to 4 times.

TAKEAWAYS AND LESSONS LEARNED

I really enjoyed my break in Puerto Rico and Cartegena. The people were so friendly! They showed me how to salsa, and taught me Spanish. They took me clubbing in their own cars, made sure we weren’t cheated, and watched our backs. They came up to drink with us. Everywhere I’ve been, the people were laid-back, relaxed, and up for a conversation, language barriers overcome by Google Translate. There might be economic ,problems in Puerto Rico, or issues with drugs and violence in Colombia (well-publicized, but got better, recently), but it doesn’t mean that we need to stop living! Puerto Ricans and Columbians love to party, love a good time, and love making new friends. Such nice people!

The city centers of Old San Juan and especially my favorite, Cartagena, are delightful to walk around in. So much color and history, so many pretty sites! Also decent locations for shopping, local restaurants and pubs, and a great way to meet people. Few things beat the beauty of the Andes Mountains, though. Just some stunning views of nature. Calms the nerves. Distresses from all of the work and school drama. Everyone should go for a Jeep drive, a bike, and a hike here, and explore the beautiful nature, while getting some exercise. Your health, both physical and mental, will thank you for it later!


I would like to thank the Panovs for being such gracious and wonderful hosts, showing us the best nature Pereira has to offer, and for putting us up at the Sonesta Hotel, where we had everything to spend some comfortable nights, and especially for allowing me to be a part of this special occasion for the two of you. I would also like to thank Alok, not only  for being such an awesome travel companion, finding cheap flights, and hostels with the best views and people, but for convincing me to see a doctor to treat my injuries, and then going to the hospital with me and even helping me buy my pills. Also, thank you Andres Ospina and his wife for showing us the best party spots in Pereira, while making sure that we have a good time and make it safe back to out hotel, as well as taking the time to come to the airport to say goodbye to us.  Finally to all of the new friends I’ve made, we shall hang out again soon. It doesn’t matter if you live in Colombia, San Martin, India, or Boston, I have no doubt that we shall go on a trip together someday. This is not a goodbye, just a see ya later!

Saturday, January 17, 2015

Exploring India

This winter break, between my MBA classes, and taking advantage of my remaining vacation days at work, I went to India. Many things intrigued me about the 2nd most populous country in the world. How do so many people live in one place; is it overcrowded? In a country where 80% of people have arranged marriages, what are people like? Are their views more modern-western, or traditional-conservative? How do they live their daily lives? How seriously do people take the caste system? How do so many different religions coexist here? Why is the IT industry booming in this country? Are some of the negative things I hear about India (dirty, too much traffic, unhealthy, poor, lots of beggars, etc) indeed true, or just bigots making stuff up?

As I explored the country and talked to people, I found the answers to some of these questions. But the primary and deciding reason why I came to India was to see my friends from college. Sure, it’s nice to go on vacation, and explore another country, and learn about different cultures. But it’s even better to do this with your best buddies by your side. Friends you unfortunately no longer see much because they live in a different country. And throughout the good times and the bad in India, the highs and the lows, my friends were always there by my side, whether helping me bargain for better deals, showing me around their cities, or even helping me get back home when I was stranded due to flight issues. So Alok and Nikhil, from the bottom of my heart, thank you! This holiday season, many people received gifts for Christmas, Hanukkah, or New Year’s, expensive gifts from stores. But I received the best one of all, one you can’t put a price on, and one that is never found in stores. True hospitality and true friendship. I have found out who my real, true friends are, and I am so fortunate, lucky and blessed to know you two! Here’s to another reunion, soon!

Similarities Across India

The first thing I noticed about India is how friendly the locals are. As soon as I stepped out of the airport at Bangalore, when a local noticed that my friend hadn’t shown up to pick me up yet, he immediately offered me to use his phone. While I was waiting for my friend to come, another Indian guy asked if I was all set, or if I needed a ride somewhere. This Indian hospitality showcased itself later, when I actually needed it the most. When my flight back to Boston was cancelled, and my phone didn’t work (because someone dropped it in the pool),  I needed to borrow cellphones to call my friends, and the locals would always not always let me do so, but even allow my friends to text their numbers! Indians are really friendly, too. They always went around offering to help me carry my luggage, or asking me questions about my home and how I was liking India, or telling me what to see and even offering to show me around! It’s so easy to make friends here, which I made many of. My friends’ families were so hospitable, too! They absolutely went above and beyond my expectations to making sure I was as comfortable as possible, even offering to do my laundry! Several times, I ate so much that I was literally about to puke, since I kept eating so much as not to hurt my hosts’ feelings about not eating the food they’ve cooked for me. Indian hospitality is one of the awesome things about that country. Contrast this to, say, New York, where not only would people refuse to let me borrow their cellphones, but forced me to buy crap just so they would give me change to use a payphone! Us Americans can learn a lot about how to treat friends and guests properly from the Indians!

Ironically, beyond all the friendliness, a more troubling pattern emerges, businesses taking advantage of tourists. When I visited the Taj Mahal, for example, our tour guide offered us to buy stuff from one of the stores….at a price over 5 times more expensive where we found a similar store, right nearby! Same with our driver from the Delhi airport to Agra, and back; he literally drove us to stores and told us where to buy things….except there was nothing good there, at a reasonable price! These guys do this because the stores give them commissions for every client they “refer”, who then makes a purchase. When I was flying out of Bangalore to Delhi, my friend already gave the luggage guy a tip, and told me so, yet after he brought all my luggage, and my friend left, he again demanded a tip from me! Although the lowest bill I had was 500 rupies (around $8), he refused to give me change, and took the whole bill! As a matter of fact, locals, and especially foreigners, need to be careful when shopping in India. So many people are ready to rip you off and take your money, and you need to be on your toes at all times and bargain effectively. This is why it is so important to go shopping with Indian friends, who have your best interests at heart, and know how to bargain properly.

Some of the top sights in India also practice price discrimination between locals and foreigners. Many places, including the Taj Mahal ,the Labagh Botannical Garden, Tipu Sultan’s Palace, and Mysore Palace, charge a cheap price for a ticket for locals and then over 5 times as much for foreigners! In the USA, this would probably be illegal and discrimination, but in India, I guess they just assume if you visit you have the money to spend, and try to take the most of it. So not fair!

But you want to know what the saddest, most messed up thing about India is? The beggars, especially the freaking child beggars. Do you know why they are there? If the poor kids are lucky, they are merely “rented’ from their families for a while to give begging more “credibility”. But many of them are kidnapped from their homes at an early age. Around 60,000 children each year are literally stolen from their homes by the Mafia, and then forced to work as beggars. They are purposefully kept looking thin and sick, and criminals even go so far as to purposely disable them, cutting out the child’s eyes, throwing acid in his/her face, or/and cutting off limbs. Sometimes, the mafia even pays “doctors” to disfigure the children! To prevent kids from escaping, the kidnappers often keep them addicted to drugs, such as opium. I know it’s not just in India, but these beggars are one of the most disturbing, fucked up things about India, and if you think about it too much, it almost makes you cry. Just so disgusting and wrong on so many levels! Does no one care? Will the Indian government do nothing to help? But as much as you want to help these poor kids, don’t give them money, because all you are doing is enabling child trafficking, and filling the Mafia’s pockets. See, the kids never get this money, the Mafiosi reap the profits because they then take this money from the kids! So no matter how many kids get in your face as you walk the streets and touch your arm, no matter how many literally start banging on your car windows as you sit in the car, no matter how sick, or pitiful they look, just ignore them. It sounds heartless and sick, but at least your money isn’t going into mafia pockets! Tourists can’t help these kids, only the government can take measures to outlaw this shit, and arrest the criminal thugs child trafficking. Don’t believe me? See for yourself, and read this:

Anyways, if you think about child trafficking in India too much, it might well ruin your vacation, so let’s put it in the back of our mind and try to move on, shall we? Let’s discuss something hectic and crazy, Indian traffic! Indian drivers are crazy! They somehow manage to turn a 2-lane road into 4 lanes of traffic. There is so much congestion, and yet Indians break the rules all the time. Running red lights, weaving in and out of traffic, cutting other cars off. Sometimes, when there is a traffic jam on one side of the highway, Indian drivers literally go to the other side of the road, and take up a lane, driving in the opposite direction, to beat the traffic! So imagine you are peacefully minding your own business, just driving on the highway when, bam, a whole row of cars are heading the other way on the lane right next to you….scary stuff!

And it’s not just cars! There are rickshaws (cheap taxis), motorcycles, cars, random pedestrians just jaywalking all over the roads, and even the occasional cow just minding its own business, wandering right in the middle of the roads (fun fact—it is a federal offense to hit a car with your vehicle; rubbing its head, however, supposedly brings good luck)! An Indian road is truly a side to behold! You got all kinds of cars, from expensive German and Japanese ones to $2,000 Tatas, Muslim women riding motorcycles in full burqas, Indian women sitting unsafely sideways in the back because they are wearing saris (a long, Indian dress), guys riding 3 at a time on motorcycles, and even motorcyclists holding random stuff like stoves or TVs, while someone else drives their bikes. The traffic is so hectic, you feel like any second someone will crash, but somehow the Indians make it work! Well, most times, at least, we did see some accidents, and heard about others. It’s truly a side to behold, and to believe it, one must see the roads with their own eyes!

As a matter of fact, driving in India is so hectic, that even the Indians themselves often don’t dare try! If you rent a car, it comes with its own driver. Even if you have your own car, and you want to travel to another city, you hire a driver. For example, my friend’s girlfriend and her friends have their own car. But to drive from Mumbai to Goa, they hired their own driver, who then drove us around in Goa! Besides driving, it is also scary to cross the road, because you have to jaywalkacross multiple lanes of traffic, and aggressively signal cars to stop, as you cross. It almost feels like you’re in a game of “Frogger”! The first couple of times I tried crossing the road in Bangalore, I am embarrassed to admit that my friend literally held my hand! Once, I even almost got hit by a bus, literally feeling the wind as it passed by. But, just like the locals, eventually I got used to the chaos. I even worked up the courage to drive in Mumbai, surviving a jaywalker, a car on the wrong side (coming toward me) of the road, and having no clue where the heck I was going!

One of the coolest things about India is the amount of diversity. The country has a Hindu majority, yet also hosts the 2nd largest Muslim population, at 120 million strong, only behind Indonesia, and is also the birthplace of Buddhism; there are also Christian and even Jewish minorities. I found myself exploring Hindi temples, as well as going inside mosques. Every morning at 4:30 AM and afternoon at 4:30 PM, the Islamic call to prayer, called an Adhan, is called out by the muezzin (an imam), which  sounds out from the minarets. The first couple of nights, I was annoyed by this because it woke me up from my hangovers in the early morning, but I soon got used to the sound. Actually, the Adhan helped me know the time, as my phone did not show the correct time, I officially had no idea what time it is….except for 4:30 AM and 4:30 PM! Next to the temples and the mosques, there are a bunch of churches, decked out in Christmas lights and all. It’s pretty cool how in a world of extremism and cultural, racial, and religious conflicts, the Indians manage to coexist mostly in peace, something many other countries can learn from India!

So far, I’ve been discussing what is common all across India. But what is different about the 4 cities I’ve visited, Bangalore, Agra, Goa, and Mumbai? Quite a lot! It’s almost as if I was in 4 different countries!

Bangalore

Of all the cities I visited, I spent the longest, 6 days, in Alok’s hometown, Bangalore. Of all the Indian cities, this one has the narrowest streets and the most hectic traffic. Also known as Bengaluru, it was founded in 1537 by Kempe Gowda. Originally, the city was not supposed to exceed the limits past the La Bagh Botannical Gardens, but as it grew, it did. This in turn sometimes causes water shortages or flooding during the monsoon season.

The city is also the beer capital in India, with 12 independent breweries, which are basically pretty sweet bars. Large drink selections of good, local beers, excellent party music, and a fantastic opportunity to have a great time! One can get discounts for the bars, and other entertainment venues by purchasing a “Blue Book”, which has coupons on drinks and food, and saved me about 30% of my money. Definitely better than the bars in Boston! Unfortunately for the independent Indian brewers, they are only allowed to sell their beers on premises, not in stores. This is because the primary beer maker in India, Kingfisher, gives nice kickbacks to the politicians to ban competition. Despite the enormous amount of tax revenue selling more beers would generate, despite providing more quality choices of beer to Indians, many politicians are corrupt, and accept bribes and kickbacks in exchange for allowing Kingfisher to create a beer monopoly. Whether Indian or American, our politicians are really not much different, ehh? Just a bunch of egoists looking out for their own interests, instead of the people they serve…

Some of the best stuff to see in Bangalore include:
·         The Bangaluru Palace -built by Reverend Garrett, the first principal of the Central High School (Central College as of 1862). It is modeled under the Windsor Castle in England. In 1952, it was renovated by Srikanta Wadiyar, a Prince form the Kingdom of Mysore. It's pretty cool. Lots of sweet illustrations and photos, and a beautiful courtyard to relax outside, while enjoying the view. Kinda expensive, though, they even charge you $12 extra to take photos! But definitely worth seeing!

·         Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens--3/4th the size of New York's Central Park, this is a serene place to explore and relax in. Lots of old trees (including the ones that you make pencils out of), plants, and a nice, peaceful lake. A main attraction is the Rose House, with its flower shows, but unfortunately those begin in February; apparently, while I am in India at the best time to enjoy the weather, flowers bloom at the beginning of monsoon season! There are all kinds of trees here, ranging from palm trees, to those you make pencils out of to, shockingly, even pine/Christmas trees! With a pond around the area and fountains, it is a serene, peaceful place, great for a walk or a date. The best part of the gardens, is the interactions with wildlife, though. There friendly macaque monkeys, stray dogs, and cows The macaques, in particular are awesome…just give them something to eat or drink, and they will climb on your head to eat and hang out!

·         Hindi temples...Ganesha Temple (dedicated to Elephant God) and the Bull Temple (dedicated to Nandi Bull, the vehicle of Lord Shiva). I won't go into lots of detail because I don't know much about Hinduism, and shall not talk about things I do not really know much, out of respect, but it was interesting to see how the people worship. You take off your shoes, go to the altar, give money to the priests (in yellow-and red togas), who then give you sweets and even the Bindi (the Hindi red dot, a symbol representing wisdom, and said to help retain energy and improve concentration). There are cool statues idols to the gods.

·         Tipu’s Summer Palace—a king of Mysore, which included Southern India, which Bangalore is a part of, was renowned for his intense hatred of the Brits, with whom he fought 4 wars (won the first 2, but lost the next 2). His summer residence in Bangalore is a sight to behold. Beautiful gardens outside, and a throne on a balcony inside. A fierce opponent of the Brits, he even built a harmonica where a tiger is eating a helpless British soldier (inspired by the death of the British soldier, son of a general, who was mauled by a Tiger in India).

·         Mysore Palace—a couple of hours’ drive from Bangalore, but probably the best site to see! Located in the city of Mysore, it was the official residence and seat of the Wodeyars — the Maharajas of Mysore, the former royal family of Mysore, who ruled the  Mysore from 1399 to 1950. After you manage to find parking and jaywalk across 4 streets full of oncoming traffic without dying, and after jostling with thousands of visitors to actually get a ticket and get into the building, you will find yourself facing beautiful courtyards, gardens, and meeting places to receive guests. The arching architecture is stunning, and a great example of how Indians build palaces. At night, it lights up, much like the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin, and is just an amazing site to look at.

·         The Vidhana Soudha--this is where the legislature of the Kernataka (the state that Bangalore belongs to) sits. There are 224 MPs. It's a very fancy building from the outside....and unfortunately, this is the only place I've seen it from.  This is because the politicians are on vacation...just like our American ones! See, I told you, that our politicians, wherever they are in the world, are not so different, after all!

·         Karnataka High Court--this is Karnataka's Supreme Court is the highest court outside of Delhi (which is the equivalent of the American Supreme Court). It is very big, and very red! Unfortuantely, just as with the Vidhana Soudha, I was unable to go inside. Is everyone on vacation right now, including me?


Agra

To get to Agra, we first had to drive there from the Delhi Airport, about a couple hours’hour drive that turns into a full 4 hours due to the intense fog. At first glance, the drive from Delhi to Agra looks almost like an American road. Wide roads, mostly cars on the street, and nice houses on the side of the road…but looks can be deceiving!

We arrived at our hotel around 9 PM. It was cold…about maybe the mid 40s, not much warmer than in Boston. (all other Indian cities I’ve visited were in the 70s-80s). Everything in Agra apparently closes after sunset, 7 PM, for some reason, and it seems like this extends to our hotel services! Despite asking for a heater, we never got one, and had to freeze in our rooms. It was too cold to take a shower, and we ended up sleeping in our sweatshirts, which must have been the only time I’ve ever actually did this indoors! Even the food was horrible…just a cold, miserable night!

But our misery was totally worth it. The next morning, we woke up nice and early to go see one of the must-see sights, in India, the Taj Mahal, one of the “new 7 Wonders of the World”, according to online voting. Built by the Muslim emperor Shah Jahan in 1648, as a tribute to his 3rd wife, after she died after the birth of their 14th child, it is a mausoleum made entirely of white marble, and is widely renowned as the “the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world's heritage". And what a stunningly beautiful site it is! You absolutely gotta go see the Taj at sunrise! When you do, admire the gleam from the rising sun, as it reflects on the white marble, making it gleam in gold. Check out the carefully hand-crafted decorations inside the Taj, too! But If you go on December, as I did, though, beware that especially in the morning, it might be foggy and cold, not the best circumstance to see beautiful architecture, but yet so worth it! By the middle of the day, you can just sit for hours, as Nikhil and I did, admiring the serenity and beauty of the site in peace, and just chill and relax, heck, even hoardes of monkeys, which we saw, do it! It’s just such a chill place; if you ever take your girlfriend travelling, take her there, it’s not exactly the same as building her a freaking Wonder of the World, but she will still be impressed!

Besides the Taj, there is a mosque (where Muslims still come and pray today), a large reflecting pool leading up to the Taj, and gardens filled with flowers. You can go inside the mosque and see for yourself. Outside the mosque, on the front steps, I was surprised to find the floor decorated with Stars of Davids! What is this, a tribute to Jews? As much as I’d like to think so, perhaps it’s just a tribute to the Jewish Egyptian philosopher Philo, whose two superimposed triangles, pointing both up and down, “symbolized the flow of energy between action and reception, male and female, God and humanity, and the upper and lower worlds.”

Besides the Taj Mahal site , the only other site worth checking out in Agra is the Agra Fort. A UNESCO heritage site(which means it’s historically protected), it is basically a walled city, complete with rooms for guests, pools, and even a small mosque. It is fun to walk around this fort with a self-guided audio tour, checking out the sites and listening to the fort’s history. One of the fort’s gate, the Delhi Gate, is still used by India’s military today, so tourists unfortunately cannot enter it, but we can see everything else! Shah Jahan’s son, Aurangzeb, imprisoned his father in this fort, where he sadly watched the Taj Mahal that he built, never getting out until his death. No matter what father-son drama going on there, what kind of son locks his dad up? Pretty messed up! The fort was also the site of the site of the battle of the Indian Rebellion of 1867, which caused direct British rule imposed on India until their, and Pakistan’s, independence in 1947.

Nikhil and I stayed in Agra for 1 day and 2 nights…..you don’t wanna stay more than that, really, unless you are OK with going bored out of your mind at night. Fortunately, the 2nd night finally got our heater, which we had to tip for. Yes, we actually had to pay for a service that should have already been included! Crazy, eh? After finally sleeping warmly, we woke up early morning again to begin the drive back to Delhi. And DAMN! Everything was covered in fog! You literally could not see more than a foot in front of you! The ride was basically like some highway to hell, barely seeing the road in front of you, while to the side all you see is gray, no buildings, no people, nothing, it’s as if everything to the sides, behind, and even before you has no life. Not sure how people even drive in such heavy fog, but somehow, in just 4 hours, we safely made it to the airport, and onward to Goa!

Goa

Up until Goa, the purpose of this trip, besides hanging out with friends, for me, was checking out the sites, familiarizing myself with the culture and just talking to the locals and see how they lived. Goa, though, was party time! As in Vegas, let’s just say whatever happens in Goa stays in Goa, thus why I have so few pictures from there. But I’ll divulge what I can.

On the plane to Goa, I came with some Hangover-themed rules, ‘Gorny’s Goa Commandments’….”Thou shalt not get arrested”; “Thou shalt not have missing limbs or people”; “Thou shalt not have a face tattoo”; “Thou shalt not get roofied”; “With these exceptions, thou shalt party like you’re in the Hangover!” And you know what? Other than briefly missing a couple of people (no worries, they made it home safe, though their cabbie did ask the 2 males if they “like big bananas”….awkward!), we had a grand old time.

In Goa, a former Portuguese colony, and the smallest Indian state, we enjoyed the beautiful beaches….while drinking, and swimming, and paragliding, of course. This despite the fact that the Indian government has recently declared the water at Goa as “unfit for swimming”! Oops, oh well….YOLO, right? We worked on our tan, while destroying our livers. Some of us learned to drive mopeds, which we crashed in 5 minutes. There were lots of international people in Goa, Germans, French, Brits, Japanese, but especially lots of Russians! I made friends with a Russian couple, as well as with this cute chick who is one of only 4% of Russians who either dislike Putting or think that he is a “despot” (Putin has a 96% approval rating in Russia, apparently.)

So, what did we do on New Year’s? Throw down over a grand for a nice, relaxing beachside party at Goa’s posh Club Chronicle, on Vagator Beach. Just mixing drinks and popping champagne bottles and dancing and having a jolly good time. But this cost us. Some of us started New Year’s just barely surviving dying from alcohol poisoning. Others brought in the first night of 2015 puking all over the villa’s restroom. Those of us who were lucky had diarrhea for a day. Others nearly got arrested for playing catch with fake candles. In other words, a New Year’s to remember, and a very fun night! What’s better than bringing in the New Year with some of your best friends, going swimming in the pool, getting drunk by the beach, and dancing the old year away?

Even when sober, we still had our share of issues. The girls stayed in one room of the villa, only to get locked in the next morning! It took us over 3 hours to get them out, and they decided to stay in the other villa for the remainder of the trip. Then, that same day, one of the mopeds locked out, causing delays. The one incident I was involved in was the weirdest and happened the next day. Our car just popped a tire, the driver was unable to get it fixed himself, so he ended calling for help. Meanwhile, the nice old lady whose house was next to our broken-down car, with Christmas lights, a friendly dog, and “Merry Christmas and Happy New Year” banners, received a sad call…someone in her family was just involved in a horrible car accident and was rushed the hospital! We couldn’t drive the poor sobbing lady to the hospital, so we did give her money for the taxi. I wonder what happened to her, hopefully her family member will make a full recovery! The whole situation was just kinda creepy. It’s as if your bad luck got transferred onto her, or something. We were glad to get out of there as soon as our car was fixed!

Mumbai

My trip ended at my final destination, Nikhil’s hometown, Mumbai. Right as we took a taxi to his house things got…interesting. Our cabbie almost hit a rickshaw, and despite there being no accident, the 2 guys started arguing, almost got into a fight, and actually had to be restrained by the cops! Thankfully, nothing happened and we made it to our destination just fine. Speaking of taxis, in Mumbai they actually put the luggage on the roofs of the cars, because the trunks have gas tanks inside! Interesting but OK…

Mumbai, the most populous city, with a population of over 20 million people (!!) is renowned for its long traffic jams and people just hanging off trains and buses. Thankfully, though, I did not participate in these traffic jams because Nikhil knows his city well enough to know when to avoid traffic and which roads to take, so huge kudos to him! He says that Mumbai is dirty and polluted, and this is probably true, but honestly, I didn’t notice much of this. Mumbai is by far the most modern, Western-style city from all the ones I’ve visited in India. While in Bangalore, the girls at the bars mostly wore jeans (and there were lots of women walking around in saris and hijabs, and burqas), the girls in Mumbai wear mini-dresses or mini skirts, dance provocatively, and actively use Tinder. Basically, a bar in Bombay (Mumbai’s old name) is pretty much indistinguishable from one in Boston!

I heard stories of people literally hanging of the sides of trains or buses. I didn’t get the chance to see the trains, but I did see a bus! And dang, it’s crazy! People literally grab on to anything they can and just hold on for real life! Buses packed to the brim, with people just hanging out! Do these people not fear falling off and dying! Crazy, crazy, crazy!

What are some sites worth checking out in Mumbai? The Grand Central Train Station is, well, grand, as in very large, and very beautiful. Just an impressively huge building. The Gateway to India, right on the Arabian Sea is so colorful and pretty at night, as is the Haji Ali Dajah, a mosque filled with stories of doomed lovers, and even a tomb! The Taj Mahal Hotel (nowhere near the actual Taj Mahal) is a gorgeous 5-star hotel, and even affordable in January, at “just” $300 a night. It was one of 3 targets in the 2008 terror attacks, where Pakistanis terrorists shipped themselves from Pakistan to Mumbai via the Arabian Sea and killed 167 people at this hotel, mostly foreigners. Never forget, and RIP! Finally, there are the Elephanta Caves, which despite their names actually have no elephants, though they do have cows, ox, and many monkeys! The caves are Hindu shrines, filled with all types of idols, statues of gods and goddesses. To get to the island, you take a one-hour ferry ride, where you enjoy looking at downtown Mumbai from the waterfront, as well as spot Indian warships, oil tankers, and your average Indian fishermen.

Getting Home---a Flying Nightmare

I had a great time in India. Alas, all good things must come to an end….or do they? On Sunday at 4 AM Indian time, I was supposed to fly out of Mumbai to Abu Dhabi via Etihad Airlines, then on to New York, and finally, to Boston. Except, the flight got fogged out! They would seat anyone who had their final destination at Abu Dhabi, but no one else! My flight was outright cancelled!

It is after this that I learned what a horrible airline Etihad truly is. Don’t be fooled by their good food and wide movie selection! While trying to find a way to get home, we were told to call a number, except no one picked up the phone. I tried to ask Etihad to rebook me with a different airline, and they straight up lied to me, saying that there were no seats available. Despite that the next morning I found seats going for over $3,500 ONE WAY!....a grand more than I laid ROUND TRIP! Etihad also put us up in a hotel and told us that they would tell the hotel at 6:30 AM what we should do next. Except they didn’t. Or next day at 6:30 AM. Or next day at 2 PM.

Seeing that I would clearly be getting nowhere with Etihad, I took an alternative flight….huge kudos to Nikhil for helping me get one for under $2,000! First I flew from Mumbai to Delhi, where my bag came in on a different flight from Mumbai. Apparently, when you fly domestically with Air India, it doesn’t matter what flight your bags are on…they can be on any plane going to the same destinations! Then, my flight from Delhi to New York got delayed by 3 hours. The first 2, there was a duplicate seat issues, they booked the same seats forn different people! Then, our route was made longer by an hour because Pakistan and Afghanistan closed down their airspace…not that I’m complaining not flying over those countries!

Long story short, I was supposed to arrive in Boston at 9:30 PM on a Sunday, get a good night’s sleep, and then go to work. What happened is I got into Boston at 2:30 PM on a Tuesday, and jetlagged and exhausted, went straight to work, luggage and all! For my commitment, I was allowed to only burn one, instead of 1.5 vacation days!

What’s happening with Etihad? They said they’ll reimburse me for the return flight I booked with them originally, $1,260, though I’m still waiting for them to do so. Also, they gave me a $140 gift card….less than a flight from New York to Boston! Thanks to them, I’ve lost overt $600. But I’m not done fighting them yet! But from now on, American or European flights only for me!

Random Facts and Observations
·         When tolls are paid in India, instead of 1 rupie, they sometimes give a chocolate candy instead! LOL it’s cheaper, since the government buys these in bulk!
·         80% of Indian marriages are arranged.
·         When visiting Hindi temples, mosques, or famous sites, take off your shoes. It’s so dirt does not get brought in into those buildings.
·         The left hand is considered the hand you wipe your ass with (huh? I always wipe mine with my right hand), and is thus considered “unclean.” Don’t eat with your left hand, and especially don’t offer your left hand to shake, even if you’re a leftie!
·         A lot of Indian women do this really cute headshake, up, down, side to side.
·         When crossing an Indian road, signal for the cars to stop, and keep walking. The aggressive and the bold always win!
·         Don’t eat the street food, unless you want diarrhea.
·         It is a federal offense to hit a cow with your vehicle.
·         If you run over someone, I’ve been told to RUN. Don’t stop, or the locals might beat you up!
·         Keep your wallet near your balls, so no one steals it.
·         I’m apparently a decent dancer when buzzed, and can even breakdance! But only when buzzed, not drunk, and certainly not sober!

·         Never fly with Etihad Airlines….ever!