Sunday, September 4, 2016

Italia….I Came, I Saw, I Conquered Saw, Swam and Enjoyed

Italia….I Came, I Saw, I Conquered Saw, Swam and Enjoyed

As someone who has studied Latin in high school, Roman history has always fascinated me. Italy has always been on my bucket list of must-dos, and this August, I finally had a chance to do a trip. What a country. What architecture. What stunning views! What beauty!

I spent just one day in Rome, but boy did I get a lot done, The first stop was my favorite: the Colosseum. Built in AD 72, the “Flavian Amphitheater” was built by the profits of the Great Jewish Revolt, primarily on the backs of Jewish slaves. We can say that technically, Jews built this top Roman tourist attraction, which was used for gladiator and animal fights, and could hold up to 80,000 spectators! The Colosseum was badly damaged in 217, and since then has been rebuilt to show an important part of ancient Roman history. I got to walk inside the Coloseeum and see the “stage” where all of the fights took place, as well as the tunnels leading to gladiator’s locker rooms and animal enclosures. What a cool view! I’ve never seen anything like it before…it was so cool literally looking at thousands of years of history!

After the Colosseum, I saw Rome’s “other” attractions, which are all located in the “Cento Storico” area of Rome and is a must-see for anyone in the city. First up was the Roman Forum. The site, known by ancient Romans as the “Forum Magnum” (meaning Big Forum), was basically ancient Rome’s city center, the heart of Rome….a market place, where elections were held, a place for parades. It served as a court room (criminal trials were held here), a stadium (speeches and even gladiatorial fights were showcased), a bazaar (street shops), and basiacally as the meeting place for all Romans to discuss life. Forty meters above the Forum, we strolled by Palatine Hill, where, according to mythology, lies the cave where Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome were raised by the wolf Lupa. Next up was the Pantheon, which was originally built as a temple to God of War Mars, but is now a church. After walking down to look at the beautiful and majestic Supreme Court of Rome, we finished the night meditating to the serene sight of the Trevi Fountains, a fountain built in the Baroque style, and one of the most famous fountains in the world.

For the next 2 days, we rented a car and drove from Rome through the Amalfi Coast, seeing the towns of Positano, Sorrento, and Amalfi. Describing these places is impossible on paper, or even photos, as this beauty is best illustrated by going there yourself. But the Amalfi coastline is absolutely my favorite place in the world. As you drive down the narrow, winding streets, you see the Meditteranean Sea from miles high. You see boats and yachts enjoying the water, as the bright-red sunlight gently gleams along the waves, making it look like a sea filled with gold. Hugging the coast, on the cliffs, there are all kinds of colorful houses, right in the mountains. As you drive all the way down to the Amalfi Coast, get out and look around you. On one side, is the mighty Mediterranean; on the other, up on the cliffs, colorful houses all around the coast, right in the hills. It’s such a unique and awesome sight. You have not seen anything until you’ve driven along the Amalfi coastline!

One word of advice when visiting the Amalfi Coast: have a skilled, experienced driver, and make sure you have a good GPS, which you follow, without going the wrong way! Driving along Amafi is a freaking nightmare. First, you have winding, curving roads, where one wrong move will send you barreling down the cliffs to your death. Secondly, the roads are narrow, and don’t even have the line dividing the 2 directions. So slow down, enjoy the view, but make sure that you don’t hit cars travelling in the opposite direction, head-on. And hope you are not stuck behind a bus. When 2 buses travel in opposite direction in the Amalfi Coat, one must pull over, almost to the edge of the cliff, and the other must slowly, skillfully pass ahead. This causes traffic jams in both directions. Also, some of the roads are super narrow; your car will barely fit. By the way, good luck finding public parking. You are basically going up or down a mountain, so parking spaces are super limited. When we got lunch, we spent over an hour just looking for parking! Finally, do not miss your turn, because if you do, you will need to go the long way around, to get back where you were, because there are usually only one way to go to specific places. So, perhaps, at this point, you might be thinking, “why drive, I’ll just take the bus”? Good luck with that. As we were told by local Italians, the buses are notoriously unreliable. We witnessed this firsthand, as a bus just went by a bus stop, never bothering to pick up the poor people waiting there! So in sum, drive along the Amalfi Coast, but bring the best driver ever, who won’t speed, won’t drink, and won’t crash and be that idiot who ruins everyone’s business/vacation by causing a traffic jam for the entire day, with thousands of angry Italians and tourists cursing you out.

On my 4th day in Italy, I rented a private yacht, with 3 friends, for just $90 Euros, including free lunch and beers! The yacht took us from Positano to the island of Capri, and along the way, we swam up to the caves and explored them, got a close-up view of the cliffs, and swam in the Mediterranean, while sunbathing right on the yacht! When we finally arrived in Capri, we took a bus up the hill downtown. The city itself was kind of a disappointment, but people should go to Capri for the swimming and the beautiful views more, anyways. For one day in Capri, I felt like a rich person….tanning on a yacht, drinking beers, swimming wherever I want, and seeing whatever I am interested in. The rich life is addicting…..and the private yacht was one of the best, happiest, most relaxing days of my life! More motivation to work hard, and become successful!

While my friends and I were happily enjoying Capri, without a care in the world, Italians and tourists just hundreds of miles away had probably the worst day in their lives. A devastating earthquake basically destroyed the entire town pf Amatrice, northeast of Rome, and a couple od the surrounding towns. Over 200 lives lost. Entire houses, neighborhoods, and communities destroyed. Rescuers from all over the world working 24/7 to dig out the rubble and finding survivors. It’s so heartbreaking, and a helpless feeling, knowing you can’t do anything to help, other than give money. The tragedy taught me the value of living each day to the fullest, and enjoying life every chance you get, because no one knows what will happen tomorrow.

Speaking of natural disasters and destroyed towns, on my 5th day in Italy, we went to Pompeii. Pompeii was an ancient Roman city, today between Amalfi and Naples, that first suffered a devastating earthquake in AD 62, and then was completely destroyed by the volcano cause by Mount Vesuvias in AD 79. The volcano killed over 2,000 civilians, although some of those who ran away in the opposite direction, IMMEDIETELY after they saw the volcano erupt, had a shot of surviving those who stayed behind, or dithered to gather belongings were certainly burned by the ash). Today, Pompeii has been preserved to showcase the history of the town. Walking through thr town, you can see the city’s streets, houses  (both of the rich and poor, a Colossum arena (which held up to 20,000 spectators, but had fights banned after the citizens of 2 towns had a violent fight, inside the arena, to 20,000 spectators), preserved bodies, profane and sexual wall graffiti, and ash-covered statues. Actually, Popmpeii was more disappointing than I expected, but perhaps it was just that there was a lot of walking on a 90+ degree F day.

After Pompeii, we drove to Naples. Naples can best be described as the American equivalent of Detroit. It looks like a run-down city. The roads have potholes. The houses are rusting. The entire city looks depressed. Naples is also one of the hubs of the Italian mafia (Sicily is the other hub), with the powerful and influential Camorra family running affairs out of that city. Looking at the city, it looks like they have stopped making their payments to government officials, probably after the recent police crackdowns on them (when my parents visited in 2009, they literally saw mob-related arrests!)

My 6th and last day in Italy was spent at the Vatican, which is the holiest site to Catholics, and the only country in the world (just over 800 citizens) not to require passports or visas. We checked out the museums, which are filled with ancient Egyptian, Greek, and Roman artifacts. We marveled at the ceiling of the Cisitine Chapel (where I don’t have photos because they are banned), which was drawn by Michaelangelo and illustrates “The Creation”, “The Fall of Man”, and the “Promise of Salvation”. Next up was St. Peter’s Basillica. The popes give speeches from the balconies here. The pope has services here on Sundays, and blesses the crowds on Wednesday mornings, except for the summers, when he does this from his personal residence, about 20 miles away. According to Catholic doctrine, the apostle St. Peter is buried here at the Basilica. We visited the Vatican on a Friday, so saw the preparations for Sunday’s services. It was a sweet experience to marvel at the beauty of the Vatican overall, and to learn about the history and main tenants of Catholicism. With my visit to the Vatican, I have now seen Judaism’s Wailing Wall, Catholicism’s Vatican, various Hindi temples, and the mosque at Taj Mahal. The only religion whose most important sites I shall likely never have the opportunity to experience is Islam’s, as Mecca and Median bar non-Muslims form visiting, and visiting the Al Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem will likely cause an international incident and heat up the Israeli-Palestinian conflict (screw politics, why can’t we just all live together in peace?)

So, what did I learn about Italy and its people? The locals are friendly, most of them speak English, they know how to suggest and have a good time. Talk to locals, and you find out the best deals….what to see, cheap private cruises, what transportation to take, where to party. One thing that surprised me was the drying of clothing; as in Croatia, people dry them on clotheslines, outsides. Are drying machines not used in Europe? Driving actually isn’t as bad as I imagined on the highways, but I’m not so sure I could drive on the Amalfi Coast. Finally, some random facts on Italian sex life (I plead the 5th on how I know these): at 45%, Italian men have the third highest cheating on wives rate, behind Denmark’s 46%, and Thailand’s 56%; former Prime Minister Silvio Burkusconi clearly has sexual dreams of black men turning into women, as he has hired strippers to wear masks ans impersonate both the ex-footballer Ronaldinho and President Barack Obama; and prostitution, technically legal in Italy, is done not in hotel rooms, or even cars…..but in public parks, behind bushes. All highly ironic for a highly Catholic country which literally

Thursday, August 25, 2016

Welcome to Hrovatia (Croatia): Extreme Sports, Dalmations, Crazy Views, and Morning Hibernations

The first part of my Summer Tour With Friends’ involved a boat tour in Croatia, along the Dalmatian Coast. After we found and boarded the boat, we began the sail along the Dalmatian Coast. What was our boat like? It was not a cruise ship. There were no 5,000 people, casinos, roadway musicals, gyms, mini golf courses, or even a pool. Ours had 3 decks, each guest had a room, with a roommate, bed and shower, and there was a cafeteria. The boat could hold about 35 people. On the top of the boat was the sundeck. We could work on our tans on it and exercise in the sea by jumping right off the boat (when the boat was stationary, and there was no current, of course). For food, there was always breakfast, lunch most times, and dinner sometimes. Local Croatian cuisine, such as a full bass fish (including head and tail)…decent food, though not the best I’ve had. The boat was owned by 5 Croatian brothers, who all worked on the boat, so it was really cool to help out a family-run business and get to know their story.

Who was on our boat? A couple of Englishmen, a Canadian, some New Zealanders….but mostly Aussies. I am actually mad at my mom for failing her Australia interview, and not moving there. The Aussies take multiple weeks, even MONTHS for vacation. Sometimes they don’t take vacations for 2 years straight, but accumulate months for one large trip, lasting several months! Some, like government employees, get 6 weeks off, plus another 2 of unpaid time. The Aussies are all over Europe now because it is winter in Australia. Also, since Australia is so far away from everywhere else, they save money by seeing lots of places at one time. On our boat I have realized how “exceptional” Americans truly are….exceptional at treating the working class like animals, that is. While every developed nation in the world has universal health care coverage, price ceilings for drugs and medication, paid maternity leave, and charges 20K or less for a year of college education (with no interest on college loans), here in the States, the working person gets treated like shit. No wonder so many are stressed out, driven to commit mass shootings, and vote for Donald Trump, not to mention ignorant about the world outside of their own borders. But enough about American politics…you all want to hear about my adventures in Croatia, right?

Funny story behind the name “Dalmation”. In the mid 19th century, the local government in the city of Dubrovnik created a voluntary police force, but more as a tourist attraction. 101 Croatian women were each assigned a Dalmation puppy. They usually take photos with tourists, but can also top criminals by tazing them, then waiting for the real police to arrive (American cops, take note. Instead of killing people, why not have hot women taze them instead?) The next male politician who came to power also created male force….where each of the 101 male Dalmation was handpicked by one of the female ones (the males then also had their own Dalmatian puppies)!

On the first day, after a delicious Croatian lunch and a brief swim stop at the Peljesac Peninsula, where we could dive into the water from the top deck of the boat; we landed in Makarska. This town on the coast of the Adriatic Sea, with a population of just under 14,000, is known for its swimming holes and its cave bars. We went for a swim, and did an obstacle course, right in the water. This obstacle course is a bit like “Wipe Out”; you have to pass several challenges, without falling into the water….it’s difficult, but fun! On the shore line, there are some sweet souvenir shops, and beach bars. In the night, it’s party time! There are literally bars inside caves, and we went to one. But perhaps the party of the day belongs to the Polish wooden boat party, which, needs no caves. They blast music, right on their boat. Even kids, with parents, are on this boat! Who needs a club, when you can just make your own!

The next day, we spent the afternoon at Mljet National Park. This is a park where you can do lots of adventure related activities. You can bike. You can kayak. Or, like me, you can swim across one or both of the pristine, warm lakes! I also went in this super slow electric boat. You kind of drive it as if you are playing a video game on a console, except it is so slow, that I beat it swimming by myself! You could have tied yourself to me, and gone faster, than taking that boat! At night, we played this Canadian game called “Box”. Each player must pick up a box with his or her mouth without touching the hands or knees to the ground. After each round, the box gets cut to become shorter. As players fail to pick up the box, they are out. I was just average at this game; most of the girls beat me, then everyone else. Ladies, how are you so flexible. And where did you pick up the rare talent to pick up boxes with your mouth, right off the actual floor? The one downside of licking a box partially eaten by 30 people, of course, is also eating their germs. Which I did, and picked up a cold. Which makes a trip to Dubrovnik less fun, but…..

Dubrovnik, our next destination, was one of my favorite cities in Croatia, despite me not being a “Game of Thrones” fan, and suffering from a Box germ-induced cold. This city, under UNESCO World Heritage protection, survived an intense bombing campaign in 1992 by Yugoslavia's Yugoslav People's Army (JNA), composed mainly of Serbs, which bombed the city after Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia, a former Soviet satellite state. The occupation lasted for seven month and damaged 56% of the real estate of Dubrovnik. We can still see the after-affects and the bombed-out buildings, even today. People in Croatia are of 2 minds when it comes to the conflict. The younger generation is not comfortable, and sometimes even outright refuses, to talk about it. The older generation, on the other hand, does not appreciate Croats who moved away during the conflict, often mockingly asking them “where were you in 1992”?

Back to the city tour. After lunch at a restaurant that can seat 40+ people outdoors, the group went on a “Game of Thrones” tour. It was interesting to learn how the show makers cover up electrical wires with flowers, to beautify the surroundings. Apparently, Dubrovnik is where some of the “Game of Thrones” scenes were taken, including some wedding, and some “Walk of Shame”, where men get naked or something? The tour ended with photos on the “throne”.  If you are into “Game of Thrones”, you will really enjoy this tour, I think. I enjoyed it, but was mostly confused….

But Dubrovnik is so much more than history and “Game of Thrones”. It is a city filled with beauty and fun. Climbing up to the top of the cliffs, you see spectacular views of the fort, with kayakers and jet skiers starting out their excursions. As you reach the cliffs, it’s time to cliff-dive. The cliffs look scary, and for the taller ones, you need to know what you are doing, and how to jump correctly, to avoid serious injury. I jumped from one of the lower cliffs (please don’t tell my mom or grandmas)!. Despite looking quite scary, jumping off a cliff is actually quite fun. It does not hurt at all when you land in the water; to jump, you should not think about it, or you might chicken out. Just close your eyes, count to 3, and jump off, then reopen your eyes to see yourself fly! Once you do it once, you want to do it again and again….but that first jump is always the heart-stopper.

Dubrovnik also has some of the best nightlife I have ever seen. We went to this club, “The Revelin”, which, of course, is a club inside a cave. Like in Prague, they serve entire buckets of alcoholic drinks, that, just as in Prague, really mess you up if you don’t pace yourself,(yes, I was the one messed up. Again, please don’t tell this part to my mom or grandmas)! There is live entertainment, including a guy playing the saxophone.

After a wild night out in Dubrovnik, the next afternoon called for a more relaxed, toned down walk around the city of Korcula. This is the home of Marco Polo (who was actually born in Italy, but spent most of his life in Korcula). We saw his house and the museum, then had a delicious lunch at the Lambarda Bay, but mostly it was a quiet night, where we just enjoyed the city views.

On the 5th day we finally arrived to Hvar. The town is covered in pine forests, vineyards, and olive groves; it even has fresh-water lakes, which, unlike most of the rest of Croatia, makes it an ideal farming location. As you walk around town, be inspired by the awesome views from the fort, of islands dotting the coasts, with green hilly trees hugging the mountains. But do not let the serenity of what you see outside fool you, as Hvar is actually a wild party town! First, we had drinks at the “Hula Hula Bar”, which has spectacular views of the city, as you enjoy drinks. But good luck getting up there. You have to climb a long, winding set of stairs. Definitely not a place for people with disabilities….or anyone drunk! You can easily fall to your death off the top of the wall. I wonder if anyone had died, or been injured at this bar? In the USA, the conditions would be considered unsafe, and the bar would have never been allowed to operate. The real party (here you can get drunk) is at “Carpe Diem”, though which is a nightclub on its own island! A boat takes you there and back, and the party gets good (filled with people) at around 2 AM-4 AM. There is even a robot dancing to entertain the revelers! If you come early enough, you can reserve a table, by buying a bottle of alcohol, all under $200 Euros. Good luck getting such a deal in Boston, or in New York!

On the 6th day, after swimming at Zlatnin Rat on Brac Island, near Bol (Golden Horn), one of the most famous beaches in Croatia, we arrived to Omis. Don’t let this sleepy town’s initial appearance fool you, as this city is full of adrenaline. Our adventure started with white-water rafting down the Cetina River…..but in between, we managed to swim down waterfalls, climb pitch-dark caves, and bathe in 50 degree F stream waters. You can only raft here during the summers, though, as the water rises to dangerous levels as winter approaches, beginning in October. At night, we went to this local pirate show, which apparently happens annually, and we were in the city that entire day. The show itself, unfortunately, was quiet underwhelming, and not as interesting as expected. Omis also offers ziplining opportunities. It is a must-do activity here. You will never regret cruising over 70 km/hour, for 400 meters, as you hang 100 feet over the Cetina River and the forests surrounding it. Bring your camera, the views are just spectacular, and it’s really not difficult, nor scary to zipline, at all!

After 7 days of Dalmatian adventures, our boat has arrived to right where it started, Split, another city under UNESCO World Heritage protection. You know right when you are downtown this large, beautiful city because one thing stands out at you….the markets. Lots of outdoor mini-shops selling all kinds of cheap, colorful stuff. I even snagged a 500 BILLION Yugaslavian currency note! You also notice the boats. So many. Sailboats, yachts, cruises, party boats….you name it. This makes sense, as shipbuilding industry is flourishing in Split, and many companies offer cruises along the Dalmatian Coast. On the last night of our boat trip, after dinner by the Bacevice Beach Promenade, I got to watch the Olympic Basketball semifinals with a bunch of Aussies. Australia supposedly is supposed to have a decent team, but don’t tell that to me. When you put up just 15 points in the entire first HALF, you just suck! Understandably, my Aussie watch mates were quiet for much of the game, and gave up after the third quarter, and went home, rather than continuing to torture themselves with the blowout.

After the boat tour was over, my friends and I stayed one more day in Split. We went to check out Diocletian's Palace, built by the ancient Roman emperor Diocletian in 305 AD, as a retirement home. After the fall of Rome, it was abandoned until the 7th century, when local residents fled to it to escape the Croatian invasion. Today, you can still see the ancient walls of this beautiful, grand palace. On Saturday nights in the summers, the plaza outside of it hosts dancing parties. Have you seen Russians doing Brazilian samba in Croatia before? I officially have now!

Some final thoughts regarding Croatia: it is a highly underrated European summer vacation spot. A great place to enjoy the sites, party, and try new activities. However, it does get old after a few days. All of the houses, in every city look the same…gray bodies, and red rooftops. Each city has a fort and a church. Practically all of the beaches lack sand. Local Croats almost all know English, and they were friendlier than I expected. Overall, a decent vacation destination, especially if you like swimming in warm salt water and outdoor bars, but don’t stay for too long, as all of the cities look very similar.


 For those who have never been before, Kodasail is definitely a cruise I would recommend. The organizer, Chris, is friendly, and knowledgeable. You get exposure to various nationalities and get to learn about how people live in other countries, and their own countries. Go with your friends and enjoy learning the history, swimming, cliff-diving, whitewater rafting, and ziplining by day, and bar-hopping, dancing, drinking, and watching live entertainment by night, You may even make new friends for life, maybe even, literally, a boatload of diverse friends!

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Mountains and Moose, Bison, Bears, and Beaches, Geysers, Lakes, and Crazy Driving.....Taming the Wild West!

First vacation of 2016! Time to leave the daily grind of work and school for a week and enjoy stunning nature. Time to exercise by walking, hiking, and jogging. Time to learn more about wildlife, geysers, and history. My vacation was perfect….even the weather cooperated and it didn’t rain a single day! What does this mean? Time for my first blog of 2016!

Utah—Mormons, Bison, and Winter Olympics Success

First, we went to Salt Lake City. The city is steeped with Mormon history, and at the city’s visitor center, there are some pretty cool exhibits on the history of Mormonsim. The religion was begun by Joseph Smith, who allegedly had God offer him instructions while he was chilling in a forest. Mormons started in New York, then moved westward to Illinois, then to Ohio and Missouri. Their neighbors usually did not treat them well and kicked them out. As a matter of fact, a century before Hitler, the governor of Missouri at the time, Lillburn Burns, issued “Executive Order 44”, also known as the “Extermination Order”, which said: “The Mormons must be treated as enemies, and must be exterminated or driven from the state”. After the death of Joseph Smith, several sects of Mormons came about, based on which leader they chose to follow. The larges. Sect, with around 12,000 followers followed Brigham Young, and moved to Salt Lake City, Utah. Other sects are around Michigan Boston, and Philadelphia (Romney family, why did you abandon Philly?) A couple of interesting facts about the Mormons: they consider themselves as one of the lost tribes of Israel (which is probably a reason why they have historically treated Jews so well), and they are not allowed to drink caffeine or alcohol, smoke, gamble, or have premarital sex. What do these people do for fun? Well, at one point, they had polygamy (multiple wives), but that then died down as it is illegal in the States. SO I guess now they just go skiing, watch the Jazz barely make the playoffs, and follow the MLS’ Real Salt Lake (the ones in Utah, at least)?

The Mormon temple is just beautiful, though. It kind of looks like a Dutch castle, with water fountains springing up right across from the entrance. The church itself is surrounded by neat little green gardens….very organized and detailed. Downtown Salt Lake City also has neat houses…modern, large, and look comfy…I would live there if it wasn’t freaking Salt Lake City!. The only other notable site is Salt Lake is the Capitol, which kind of looks like DC’s capitol, just significantly smaller. I was surprised by the lack of security…probably since not that many people live in Utah.

Another cool place to visit in Utah is the misnamed “Antelope Island”. Instead of antelopes, there are herds of bison. Bison, also known as buffalo, were once all over the US….according to some estimates, over 64 million. But then, American settlers decided that bison meat is delicious (I can personally confirm that it is), and these giant animals were hunted, until only 300 were left at the turn of the 20th century. But buffalo are now making a comeback…there are now 7,000 in the wild, in just 3 states: Utah, South Dakota, and Wyoming. Buffalo look kind of bizarre…..furry at the top, almost naked at the bottom. They seem slow and lazy, but watch out….piss one off, and you can get tossed feet by the powerful horns, by a large animal that can run up to 35 mph. Anyways, back to Antelope Island; other than bison, there is also a giant salt lake, but good luck swimming in it, as it’s filled with goo and has a shoreline made of stones. Other than the salt lake and the bison, the area actually looks pretty bleak and depressing, just a lot of sand and empty valleys. I didn’t like it…but watching a buffalo run at full speed is funny!

Of course, the 2002 Winter Olympic games were held in Park City, which is about a 40 minute drive to Salt Lake City. Today, the Olympics site has turned into a museum. There’s Olympic history, exhibits, skiing simulations, and even an obstacle course. Every weekend, there are ski jumping shows (the skiiers jump into pools during the summer), which I was fortunate enough to witness. The most fun part is riding in a bobsled. A professional driver actually took me on the very same course as the bobsledders used during the Olympics! In the winter, these go as fast as 88 mph; the Olympics record is 98 mph. But in the summer, I only reached 71mph. A bobsled ride is thrilling! You have to sit in a specific way, hold on to rope in a certain manner…even arch your back at a certain angle. It’s fun to be a passenger, but I think I’ll stick to driving cars at those speeds, rather than bobsleds! Boston could have done the same thing with the summer Olympics….have the world’s biggest sport in a city with the most passionate fans, then make money off the museums and activities, creating hundreds of jobs. The pone thing not cool about Boston is that some of us have this provincial, isolationist attitude about anything not Boston, and we can certainly don better.

South Dakota—Hall of Fame for American Leaders

The first stop on my itinerary at this state was Independence Rock. This is basically a huge mountain, which served as the North Star on the Oregon Trail. It is close to the halfway point of migrants travelling form St. Louis to Utah, Oregon, and California. If travelers reached this destination before the 4th of July, they had a good chance of reaching their final destination before the first snows. If they survived the journey, that is. The most common deaths were due to getting run over by wagon wheels (driven by oxen or horses), and getting yourself shot with your own gun (LOL). Another common cause was dysentery, where a perfectly healthy person could die within 24 hours form drinking poisoned water. The dead were usually hastily buried in mass graves, wherever they died. Learning about the Oregon Trail reminds me of this game I played in elementary school “The Oregon Trail”, where you could hunt food, do other fun things, and yes, die of dysentery.

Of course, anyone visiting South Dakota must view Mount Rushmore. Gutzon Borklum embarked on the project to carve the faces of 4 presidents. Originally conceived during the Coolidge Administration, the carvings of faces of 4 American iconic presidents, George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln (in that order, left to right) were finished during the FDR administration, shortly before WWII. The faces were made by blasting away parts if the mountains, and it was impossible to add anything back to the face post-blast , so the blasts required a lot of careful logistics and planning. At the entrance of Mount Rushmore, there is a flag of every American state, plus Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands, as well as the year that they joined the country. Once you get past these flags, you can walk around for as long as you want, snapping pictures from various angles. I got some good ones! Also, there is a team that monitors geological changes, flagging potential threats to the faces….so far there are none, but if there were, appropriate measures would need to be taken!

After Mount Rushmore, I also saw the head of the Native American leader, “Crazy Horse”, of the Oglala Lakota tribe. This chief was one of the few leaders who refused to sign a treaty with Americans settlers, giving his land away to them, instead constantly fighting against them. His biggest victory was at the :Battle of Bighorn” (also known as Custer’s Last Stand), and yes, I’ve also visited the site! He stood up for his tribe’s interests, and for that he has my outmost respect. Apparently, he also earned the respect of, Korczak Ziolkowski, a Polish immigrant and student of, who, along with his wife, privately financed, then built a huge head dedicated to Crazy Horse, carved out of mountain stone. Today, the family is continuing its artwork, working on Crazy Horse’s horse. The monument is larger than each Egyptian Pyramid, and each of the 4 faces at Mount Rushmore, combined. It is pretty expensive to visit, though, and, unlike Mount Rushmore, you can’t walk up to the mountain top by yourself, but must pay for a bus to take you up to snap pictures, and yuu only get limited time and angles to do so. Quite a ripoff, actually. And they say that private enterprise is always more cost-effective and efficient (haha!)

Other than mountains and carvings, there is not that much to do in South Dakota. Not many people, at all. Driving is fun, though! I got to break my US driving record of 115 mph, because there are so few cars (the speed limit is technically 80 mph, but there are practically no highway cops). The scariest part of driving in South Dakota is passing cars. There is only one lane of traffic each way, but you can pass on the opposite side of the road. Just make sure to leave enough time to get back in your lane, before colliding with a car heading in the opposite direction head-on….I’ve had a couple of close calls! Along the drive, there are many beautiful red mountains; the red represent opportunities to mine copper, which people have frequently done here.  Other than thrill of driving, Custer State Park is a cool place to check out, where there is this pretty lake, Sylvan Lake, where you can go swimming. The water is warm, and I was able to successfully swim across the lake (don’t try this by yourself, unless you’re a decent swimmer, like me). Also, when I was in South Dakota, I saw a forest fire, which is apparently normal and happens naturally, although fire crews were working on putting this one out. A forest fire is an interesting, a bit scary event to witness!

Wyoming—Wildlife, Wilderness, and the Wild West

Every person in the world, let alone the USA, should visit a national park. There is this power of nature. It calms you. It makes you feel healthier, stronger, more confident, more relaxed, at peace. It’s a way to wind down, to mediate, to recover, to learn. In the words of Laurence Rockfeller, “In the midst of the complexities of modern life, with all its pressures, the spirit of man needs to refresh itself by communion with unspoiled nature. In such surroundings, occasional as our visits may be, we can achieve the kind of physical and spiritual renewal that comes alone from the wonder of the natural world." My escapes form life were the Yellowsstone National Park and Grand Teton.

Yellowstone National Park. is a couple hundred miles long, and is the home to bison, deer, moose, bighorn sheep  also known as rams), both black and brown bears, and various species of birds, including eagles, hawks, ravens, and owls. Driving in Yellowstone is scary….on a couple of occasions, a buffalo was either walking on the road I was driving on, or on the opposite side! These animals may seem slow and lazy, but piss one off, and you are dead. So imagine driving, slowly, quietly, past a buffalo, just inches from you, and making eye contact! I also saw blackhorn sheep, deer, falcons, and a vulture. Yellowstone has a wildlife rule: stay at least 100 feet away from the bears and bison, and at least 25 feet from all of the other wildlife….trust me, a wise plan! Yellowstone, of course, offers more than just a home for wildlife. There are a couple of neat waterfalls and a few lakes (one, Yellowstone, is huuugeee); if you get lucky, you can catch moose or bears fishing (unfortunately, I did not!) The lakes are freezing, though, swimming is prohibited, and you need a ranger’s permit even to boat there.. The highlight of Yellowstone are the numerous geysers, though. There are only 6 locations with active geysers: New Zealand, Chile eastern Russia, the middle of the Atlantic Ocean (random!) and Yellowstone National Park. A geyser forms when there is heat, water, and an active volcano site, as well as a “reservoir” of water. With some geysers over 200 degrees Celsius, they are scalding hot….someone dumb enough to touch one could get injured and even killed! Geysers are dangerous, but beautiful. They are like pools you can’t swim in, just more colorful…red, orange, blue and green colors all mesh together as vapor fills the air. Truly a unique site you should check out for yourself, but see my geyser photos in the meantime!

The other national park worth checking out in Wyoming is Grand Teton. This park has some spectacular views of mountain tops. At first glance, you could be forgiven if you mistake the white tips for snow; they are actually just sand. Some of the lakes offer guided scenery tours, and I even swam and boated in one (String Lake). Grand Teton is most known for its active bear population, both grizzlies and black bears. I saw a black cub! There are signs all over the park warning you to leave all food locked in “bear-proof” containers. Do you know how to survive a bear attack? First you use bear spray, if the bear notices you. At the same time, make a lot of noise, hopefully scaring the bear away. If the bear still attacks, play dead. If the bear is still on you, as a last resort fight back. Never run! This attracts the bear to you and tempts it to give chase. Me? I would carry a knife. How does one “fight back” against a bear without any weapons? Better yet, stay over 100 feet from the bear, and pray it does nto notice you!

Of course, no story on Wyoming would be complete without mentioning its 2 historic towns, Jackson, and Cody. Jackson looks like it was taken right out of a late 1800s Wild West town, with similar architecture. The restaurants have live entertainment, and the bars can get quite rowdy. So different from an East Coast city, and so fun! Cody looks like a more modern city, and it was founded by William Cody, who many know as “Buffalo Bill”. This outdoorsman and explorer colonized much of Wyoming and other parts of the “Wild West’, eventually starring in “road shows”, which took him to 47 states and 12 locations in Europe, including a private viewing by the British Royal family. Cody once killed fought, and bragged about killing, Native Americans, but later in his life, as he got to know them better as part of the cast on his road shows, he changed his views and became one of the fiercest advocates for their rights, often criticizing how they were being treated by the American government, and even supporting Native American citizenship/He built a museum in Cody, and it was pretty awesome to elarn about his life, and the history of the city!


Sunday, August 2, 2015

A Little Bit of Dancin', a Little Bit of Beach, a Little Bit of City, Life is Just a Peach--( Puerto Rico, Pereira, & Cartagena)

OBJECTIVES

Summer Break, July, 2015. After an absolutely brutal year, where work, school , and record snowfall over Boston kept me so busy that I rarely had enough time to as much as catch up with friends, I was really looking forward to this trip…..Puerto Rico, and Pereira and Cartagena, Colombia. The plan was to enjoy a relaxing, tropical vacation, with a good friend, who I unfortunately do not have a chance to see much anymore, while also marrying off one of my best buddies, while also meeting new people, learning new things, exposing myself to different cultures, and exploring new places. This trip fulfilled all of my objectives. I spent quality time with some of my best friends. I made new ones… residents of small Caribbean Islands, people just 10 minute drive from my house in Boston, soccer prodigies, startup business owners, wounded Iraq and Afghanistan war veterans who told me about how the US government takes opium in Afghanistan and then sells it to big pharma, and of course, local Colombians and Puerto Ricans. The vacation was about weddings, parties, continued relationships….but also about new beginnings and unsought opportunities. It was about travel….by plane, car, foot, and ferry, but also by bike, ambulance, brujita, and garrucha. Sure, there were some bumps and bruises along the way (literally!). But this is what life is all about, isn’t it? We utilize our vacations from work to enjoy ourselves, make new memories, and form stronger connections. We make new friends. We catch up with old ones. We learn and appreciate new cultures and lifestyles. We try new things, go on adventures, enjoy natural beauty, make our own parties. Yes, sometimes we shall fall down. But we get back up. We deal with the pain and keep going, until we reach the finish line. Only then can we rest up, heal, go back to work….and get ready to do it all over again. This is how winners are made!


PUERTO RICO

Saturday Night: We arrived in this American territory, the only one where everyone speaks Spanish. Since 1917, Puerto Ricans have been granted American citizenship. This means that we could continue to show our licenses instead of our passports, and more importantly, that our phones could still be used to call and text without wi-fi. Puerto Rico may be going the way of Greece in terms of its tanking economy and debt issues, but you wouldn’t know if you check out the party scene, as we did this night. People here love to drink, dance, and party on the streets. Unfortunately, I soon discovered the hard way that girls here will refuse to dance with you if you don’t know salsa! And salsa is the ONLY music they play in Puerto Rico. It is a pity that we were not in San Juan on Friday night, though. Saturday night clubbing was fun and all, but on Friday nights, the streets with the bars and clubs are literally cordoned off, and the locals have crazy street parties, including loud music, dancing on the streets, and lots of drinking. It sounds just like Spring Brea, or the annual street parties at public colleges!

Sunday: We rented a car. The renting company seemed pretty determined to make me purchase their auto insurance; they demanded to see a copy of my policy! So after an hour of looking around online for my damn  policy, I finally found it, and could just use my own auto insurance (pro tip: being insured by your employer helps….you can also find confirmation emails in your work emails). After we finally got the car, we went down to the beach, except it started pouring for the entire day. Another bummer. We made the most of this by eating at some local bars, watching baseball and MLS soccer, and being entertained by the random bicyclists who cycled in with their stereos, and threw a dance party…..right on the  street! You guessed it…..lively, addicting salsa music! At a pizzeria, an ad to buy a house caught my house. A 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom house, on the beach, for just $180 K? Sign me up!

Monday: Beach day! We travelled to Flamenco Beach, ranked as the 3rd best beach in the world, according to Trip Advisor. Good luck getting here, though! You need to stand in line at 4 AM (yes, 4 AM, not a typo), just to purchase the ferry ticket! Or, you could do what we did, which is arrive at 8:45 AM, find out all of the tickets are sold out, and fly in via private plane, while enjoying the beauty of Flamenco Beach from up in the sky. Getting here was totally worth it. Few things in life are better than a beer with friends, on white, clean sand, overlooking a green-blue, ocean, with a smooth sandy bottom, as the sun glimmers like gold over the waves. Actually, yes, one thing is better….snorkeling on the nearby Tamarindo Beach, seeing all kinds of reefs, fish, even giant sea turtles. It was just a fun, relaxing day at the beach. After such a hectic 2015, I needed a day to myself to just chill out, hang out with friends and relax, and boy did I get it. When you go to Puerto Rico, ignore the city beaches, they suck. (the ocean is rocky, and they cordon off the swimming area; also the beach areas are small) Plan a trip to the islands, where there are some of the best beachesin the world!

Tuesday: Time to get drunk on the Bacardi tour! Although the Bacardi family originally started their business in Cuba, their distillery is now in San Juan, Puerto Rico. The business immigrated shortly after Fidel Castro made Cuba Communist, and his government started taking private property and profits. Cuba’s loss is our gain! We received a full tour of how Bacardis are made, and the steps in the process to make one of my favorite rums. I was amazed at how much equipment is required to make rum, and especially by how large the factory was…..making rum takes up lots of space! The best part was the opportunity to make our own drinks, though. I made 3 different Bacardi drinks (yes, I obviously drank them all myself), and I even have the diploma to prove my new degree in Bacardi brewing! Who said you can’t earn a new degree, while on vacation! So….who wants me to make you a drink?

Wednesday Last day in Puerto Rico. What better way to spend the last day before our flight out to Pereira, than to explore Old San Juan! The city was founded in 1508, by  the conquistador Juan Ponce de Leon. It is surrounded by a fort, which the Spaniards build to ward off their European rivals and pirates. A military cemetery abuts the fort, just outside of the Atlantic Ocean. Wow, what a city! Gorgeous architecture, with so many colorful, old buildings. Narrow streets filled with shops, Spanish-style, as I’m told. Old San Juan is just a wonderful place to walk around, do some shopping, enjoy nature, and marvel at the beauty of architecture. It is open late at night if cruise ships are in, but closes early on days when there are none.

PEREIRA, COLOMBIA

Thursday started off nice and early, as we all hopped on the bus, made new friends, and went down to Salento, a suburb of Pereira, Colombia. This town was once a primary route from Popayán to Bogotá, over the Quindío Pass ( "La Línea"), but was only established as an official town in 1842. Salento is such a pretty little town! We walked along the streets of this typical Colombian community, checking out the shops, as we walked up a staircase in the Andes Mountains. From the top, we were treated to a spectacular bird’s eye view of the town. So may rooftops, all perfectly aligned with the streets! We also got the opportunity to try out Colombia’s number one specialty, coffee. Black, sugar, much caffeine little caffeine…..so many options to choose from!

Before going on a serene hike in the Cocora Valley, looking up at the lovely Andes Mountains and enjoying the waterfall, we planted trees, for various reasons. With these trees, we wish for peace between Russia and Ukraine. We hope for better relations between Russia and the USA. We desire Colombians to enjoy the same standard of living as the Germans appreciate. With these trees, we pray for friendship over conflict, for tolerance over division, for leaders to show the courage to unite the people of the world, rather than continue using us as political pawns by dividing us. With these trees, we call for understanding and friendship between the Russians, Ukrainians, Americans, Germans, Colombians, Indians, Chinese, Brits, and all other nationalities not represented by our party, Not just for a wedding, or for a week, let’s build better relationships with all of the people in the world, forever!

The hike up the Cocora Valley was fun. It’s a serene nature walk, surrounded by the Andes Mountains and these tall palm-like trees, called “wax palms”. We went up to the waterfall, where we crossed this small bridge to enjoy the view. After taking a break for some quality dinner at an authentic Colombian restaurant, we hopped back on the bus and went down to the hot springs, in the Andes Mountains. Despite the chilly temperatures, the hot springs were actually quite pleasant for swimming, relaxing, and socializing. Historically, various people, from the ancient Greeks and Romans, to Russian czars and their families, have gone to hot springs to cure various  physical and mental ailments. Many recovered from their illnesses, and it’s no surprise. The hot springs are relaxing. They are soothing. They are therapeutic. Just sit back and enjoy. Or go down under the waterfall, if you’re feeling particulary adventurous. Once I got out, I did not even feel cold anymore.,…but I did feel healthy, happy, and in good spirits!

Friday: The morning started off with a tour of a coffee farm. We were shown how various brands of coffee are produced, and how it is inspected for quality. It was a cool experience. Along with humans, dogs and peacocks coexist on this farm, seemingly unafraid of strangers. While I personally am a city guy, who would quickly tire of the farm lifer, there is something beautiful and romantic about living out of town, making your own food, and not being dependent on anyone else to survive. The people who made coffee on this farm were clearly enjoying their work, and were so passionate in sharing their knowledge with us.

The rest of the day was supposed to be a dress rehearsal for the wedding. Except, the guests had no clue what they were supposed to be doing for the wedding! While waiting for the bus, some friends and I ran into a childhood friend of Juliana’s (the bride) mother, except he told us was an uncle. He, in turn, thought that we were supposed to go to the church for the rehearsal, and so drove us there, except nobody was at the church! So we drove back and drank rum with him instead, until the dinner. The language barrier was kinda an issue! Finally, at the dinner, everyone socialized some more, drank, and had a jolly good time, calling it an early day, excited for the big day tomorrow.

Saturday: Finally, the big wedding day! It started off lazily enough with me just chilling by the pool the entire morning and much of early afternoon. Little did I know how much energy I would need to make it through the day! After the deeply Catholic wedding at the church, the party began. There were hired dancers, performing traditional Pereiran folk dances. After dinner though, it was our turn to dance. And drink Auguardiente, the Colombian vodka. Straight up shots. 2-3 times. One after the other. On multiple occasions. Let me tell you something. I have been to numerous weddings, and NONE were more fun than this one! We took funny photos in silly costumes. We put on pretty little lights, giant glittery hats, and wigs, and danced the night away. Colombian music. Russian. American. Indian. Today’s hits The 90s. The Macarena (really). And took more shots of Auguardiente, deep into the early morning, where extremely inebriated, we went back to sleep off our hangover, after experiencing one of the best parties of our lives. I don’t think  ever had such a fun night….and the bar is set extremely high to entertain at my own wedding!

While wedding parties are fun, let’s remember the real reason why we were all here. It is to celebrate 2 people who are in love. What is true love? It is surviving through all of the distractions of 4 years of college, and still coming out in the same relationship. It is continuing to build the relationship long-distance, despite the inconvenience of commuting between Boston and Connecticut (closer to the NY side). It is the challenge of the guy getting suddenly laid off, needing to leave the USA, and starting a new life in Germany…and the girl saying goodbye to her family and friends, packing her bags, and joining her lover to start a new life together, in a new country, on a new continent. That’s true love. That’s commitment. Anton and Juliana, congratulations on getting married! It is clear that your love for each other is so strong that nothing will tear it apart, and I wish you much health and happiness together. May you have a long-lasting marriage, filled with passion, adventure, and excitement. Thank you for sharing this happy moment with me and allowing me to play a small part in your love for each other.
As you prepare for the next chapter of your lives together, just know that I shall always support you, and be there for you every step of the way….just let’s continue to keep in touch, and meet up again sometime soon!

Sunday: What does one do the morning after a heavy night of drinking and partying, at 7 AM? Sleep in, nursing your hangover, lazily lounging by the pool in the afternoon? Nope! Enjoy the beautiful views of the Andes Mountains by going on a bike ride, followed by a hike, of course! Just one problem. I have never mountain biked. It takes practice, and it takes some getting used to….but before you succeed, you fall. And fall I did, bruising most of my left arm, the palm on my right hand, and most painful of all, spraining and straining my right wrist, which I’m still which I’m still currently recovering from. But you know what? I got back up on the bike. And I did not fall off again. While I did not finish the bike ride out of consideration for the rest of my group, as I did not want to slow down the experienced riders in my group, who clearly wanted to go faster, I gave it my best. Tomorrow is a new day. I might fall again, I might once again be in much pain, but I will get up, and fight to finish the race! Time to practice some mountain biking!

Having rested and gotten used to the pain in the Jeep a little bit, I joined the others to continue our adventures. First, we took the brujita to the river. A brujita is a cart on tracks, which is powerd by a motorcycle. In what seems like a scene form a fiction movie, when 2 brujitas move in opposite directions, everyone gets off one of them, one of the brujitas is lifted right off the tracks, the other one continues along its merry way, and then the brujita that was lifted gets placed back on the racks, and continues on its journey. Then, to cross the river, we took the, garrucha where laborers pull a cart, by hand, via rope, across the river. Basically, transportation in Pereira seems like very laborious work!  The locals come here to camp on the weekends, but we hiked up the Andes Mountains, braving the winding roads and the treacherous turns and streams to reach the springs, where we took a dip in our undies, not having brought swimming suits. On the way back, we drank a Colombian beer named “Poker” (you know I’m bringing one to the next casino!), and had to recycle the empty bottles back into the shops’ freezer. It’s more economic….the empty bottles are reused (and hopefully washed well!), saving money! The hike was difficult with all my painful injuries, but this just made it more interesting. Unable to utilize my right palm, or much of my left arm, I had to great creative and improvise my steps. Strategy with endurance, calculations before decision-making. On the way back, we drank a Colombian beer named “Poker” (you know I’m bringing one to the next casino!), and had to recycle the empty bottles back into the shops’ freezer. It’s more economic….the empty bottles are reused (and hopefully washed well!), saving money!

After our morning exercise, it was time to explore the city of Pereira. Not much to see, though. There are a bunch of casinos, but make no mistake, this is no Vegas. The casinos have a bunch of bingo-like tables, all numbered. No, we did not play….something called a language barrier and a lack of time. We also went to a local café and ordered 6 types of different juices. We enjoyed the “maracuya” ( made form a South American ‘passion flower’and the “guayaba” (made of guava, a tropical fruit), were neutral on the “Curuba”(made out of bananas), and disliked the “Tomato de Arbol (a tomato juice)” and the “Araza” ( a type of fruit found in the Amazonian rainforest).

When I got back to the hotel, my friends freaked out about my injuries and peer pressured me to see a medic. So I called form one up at the hotel, and he took a look and said that all of my injuries were “artificial”, which was great news. Oh, also, my mom emailed and called. I had to get back to her, and she already knew that I went biking because one of my friends told her…..so a fun conversation, as you can imagine! The shower was some of the most painful stuff I’ve ever had to go through, though. My bruises were in excruciating pain form the soap, but thankfully this was just a one-time thing, and there was no more such pain when I showered the next day.

Monday and Tuesday: I spent these 2 days at the Hotel Sonesta, recuperating from my injuries. Except not really, as I made the mistake of playing tennis on Monday (remember the medic cleared me), which just made my wrist hurt more. On Tuesday, since we were about to fly out to Cartagena, I was convinced to have the medic check up on me just in case, better be safe than sorry! And they freaked me out when the nurse said that my wrist might be broken, gave me a shot in the buttocks, and told me to go to the hospital! So we went via ambulance. On the way there, we got to see some more of downtown Pereira. At one point, a motorcycle crashed in the back our ambulance! We almost made new company at our ambulance party, but the guy on the bike pulled it out from underneath the ambulance, and then just drove away, as if nothing happened! At the hospital, my hand was X-rayed, and I found out I “only” had a sprain and a strain. The doc wrapped up my hand, gave me some anti-bacterial drugs and some painkillers (which I didn’t use, as the pain was going away) and discharged me.

Compare the costs of urgent care in Colombia to the US. In the USA, an ambulance ride alone costs about $1,500 K. An X-ray costs $190 for a wrist. Also, a doctor seeing you for 15 minutes, about the time I was seen is about $100. Pills in the USA cost about $80 per bottle (the cost for Travelers’ Diarrhea pills, for example). In Colombia, the ambulance ride was 100% FREE. Total urgent care costs for everything was just $160. 4 different pills cost just $20 bucks, combined. Difference: $2,000 in the USA-$180 in Pereira. It just goes to show that the US has a broken health care system. By failing to regulate the prices of pills, we basically subsidize prices for the whole world, as pharmaceutical companies must keep below a certain price ceiling in most countries, so make up profits in the US by artificially inflating prices. Meanwhile, ambulance companies, hospitals, and doctors all want a piece of their pie, too Clearly changes to the American health system need to be made…not just to insurance, but to the costs of the hospital process, and especially pharmatheutical prices….

CARTAGENA:

Wednesday and Thursday: Cartegena became independent from Spain on November 11th, 1811, and the number “11” is   very significant to them, so it was quite fitting that our plane landed at 11 PM!. The plan was to see the city of Cartagena on Thursday, then go to the beaches on Elephant Island on Friday. However the thunderstorm on Thursday, which lasted for several hours, put the dampers on this plan. We were stuck at the hostel till the night, when we went to the square and took a horse-and-buggy ride. Speaking of horses, I learned a cool fact about equestrian statues…one leg off the ground means that the rider died of unnatural causes (i.e. disease, duels, etc), 2 legs symbolize a death in battle, and all 4 legs on the ground tells us that the rider died of natural causes (old age). Unfortunately though, since it gets dark in Cartagena at 6b PM, we did not see much of the city on Wednesday, though we did end up at a pretty cool bar. Except I couldn’t drink due to the anti-bacterial medication I was taking to nurse my bruises form getting infected….bummer!

On Thursday, the weather was much nicer, so we took a 2 hour tour. It quickly became apparent  why Cartagena is the only city in the world that is a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are so many brightly colored houses, lining typical Spanish-style narrow streets. On some of the huge windows, there are balconies full of flowers! Around the city is a fort (Spaniard colonists always built forts to protect themselves from other Europeans and pirates), which overlooks the ocean. Climb up, and you can see the ocean, with highscrapers in the distance from one side, and like the only parking lot in the city (if you drive in Cartagena, may God have mercy on your soul) and if you turn around, rows of brightly colored houses in the opposite direction. I was surprised and amused that the people of Cartegena have basically stopped using libraries, instead preferring to use their phones or laptops! As our tour guide explained, the only library in town is owned by a bank, and on a good day, maybe 7 people would visit….of whom 5 are there for the free Wi-fi and the air conditioning! One of the coolest things about Cartegena are the door knockers. Door knockers symbolize your career; a lion knocker represents a warrior, a mermaid a fisherman, an owl a teacher, a hand a priest or nun, etc. Also, the better you know someone, the more you knock; strangers knock just once, friends up to 4 times.

TAKEAWAYS AND LESSONS LEARNED

I really enjoyed my break in Puerto Rico and Cartegena. The people were so friendly! They showed me how to salsa, and taught me Spanish. They took me clubbing in their own cars, made sure we weren’t cheated, and watched our backs. They came up to drink with us. Everywhere I’ve been, the people were laid-back, relaxed, and up for a conversation, language barriers overcome by Google Translate. There might be economic ,problems in Puerto Rico, or issues with drugs and violence in Colombia (well-publicized, but got better, recently), but it doesn’t mean that we need to stop living! Puerto Ricans and Columbians love to party, love a good time, and love making new friends. Such nice people!

The city centers of Old San Juan and especially my favorite, Cartagena, are delightful to walk around in. So much color and history, so many pretty sites! Also decent locations for shopping, local restaurants and pubs, and a great way to meet people. Few things beat the beauty of the Andes Mountains, though. Just some stunning views of nature. Calms the nerves. Distresses from all of the work and school drama. Everyone should go for a Jeep drive, a bike, and a hike here, and explore the beautiful nature, while getting some exercise. Your health, both physical and mental, will thank you for it later!


I would like to thank the Panovs for being such gracious and wonderful hosts, showing us the best nature Pereira has to offer, and for putting us up at the Sonesta Hotel, where we had everything to spend some comfortable nights, and especially for allowing me to be a part of this special occasion for the two of you. I would also like to thank Alok, not only  for being such an awesome travel companion, finding cheap flights, and hostels with the best views and people, but for convincing me to see a doctor to treat my injuries, and then going to the hospital with me and even helping me buy my pills. Also, thank you Andres Ospina and his wife for showing us the best party spots in Pereira, while making sure that we have a good time and make it safe back to out hotel, as well as taking the time to come to the airport to say goodbye to us.  Finally to all of the new friends I’ve made, we shall hang out again soon. It doesn’t matter if you live in Colombia, San Martin, India, or Boston, I have no doubt that we shall go on a trip together someday. This is not a goodbye, just a see ya later!

Saturday, January 17, 2015

Exploring India

This winter break, between my MBA classes, and taking advantage of my remaining vacation days at work, I went to India. Many things intrigued me about the 2nd most populous country in the world. How do so many people live in one place; is it overcrowded? In a country where 80% of people have arranged marriages, what are people like? Are their views more modern-western, or traditional-conservative? How do they live their daily lives? How seriously do people take the caste system? How do so many different religions coexist here? Why is the IT industry booming in this country? Are some of the negative things I hear about India (dirty, too much traffic, unhealthy, poor, lots of beggars, etc) indeed true, or just bigots making stuff up?

As I explored the country and talked to people, I found the answers to some of these questions. But the primary and deciding reason why I came to India was to see my friends from college. Sure, it’s nice to go on vacation, and explore another country, and learn about different cultures. But it’s even better to do this with your best buddies by your side. Friends you unfortunately no longer see much because they live in a different country. And throughout the good times and the bad in India, the highs and the lows, my friends were always there by my side, whether helping me bargain for better deals, showing me around their cities, or even helping me get back home when I was stranded due to flight issues. So Alok and Nikhil, from the bottom of my heart, thank you! This holiday season, many people received gifts for Christmas, Hanukkah, or New Year’s, expensive gifts from stores. But I received the best one of all, one you can’t put a price on, and one that is never found in stores. True hospitality and true friendship. I have found out who my real, true friends are, and I am so fortunate, lucky and blessed to know you two! Here’s to another reunion, soon!

Similarities Across India

The first thing I noticed about India is how friendly the locals are. As soon as I stepped out of the airport at Bangalore, when a local noticed that my friend hadn’t shown up to pick me up yet, he immediately offered me to use his phone. While I was waiting for my friend to come, another Indian guy asked if I was all set, or if I needed a ride somewhere. This Indian hospitality showcased itself later, when I actually needed it the most. When my flight back to Boston was cancelled, and my phone didn’t work (because someone dropped it in the pool),  I needed to borrow cellphones to call my friends, and the locals would always not always let me do so, but even allow my friends to text their numbers! Indians are really friendly, too. They always went around offering to help me carry my luggage, or asking me questions about my home and how I was liking India, or telling me what to see and even offering to show me around! It’s so easy to make friends here, which I made many of. My friends’ families were so hospitable, too! They absolutely went above and beyond my expectations to making sure I was as comfortable as possible, even offering to do my laundry! Several times, I ate so much that I was literally about to puke, since I kept eating so much as not to hurt my hosts’ feelings about not eating the food they’ve cooked for me. Indian hospitality is one of the awesome things about that country. Contrast this to, say, New York, where not only would people refuse to let me borrow their cellphones, but forced me to buy crap just so they would give me change to use a payphone! Us Americans can learn a lot about how to treat friends and guests properly from the Indians!

Ironically, beyond all the friendliness, a more troubling pattern emerges, businesses taking advantage of tourists. When I visited the Taj Mahal, for example, our tour guide offered us to buy stuff from one of the stores….at a price over 5 times more expensive where we found a similar store, right nearby! Same with our driver from the Delhi airport to Agra, and back; he literally drove us to stores and told us where to buy things….except there was nothing good there, at a reasonable price! These guys do this because the stores give them commissions for every client they “refer”, who then makes a purchase. When I was flying out of Bangalore to Delhi, my friend already gave the luggage guy a tip, and told me so, yet after he brought all my luggage, and my friend left, he again demanded a tip from me! Although the lowest bill I had was 500 rupies (around $8), he refused to give me change, and took the whole bill! As a matter of fact, locals, and especially foreigners, need to be careful when shopping in India. So many people are ready to rip you off and take your money, and you need to be on your toes at all times and bargain effectively. This is why it is so important to go shopping with Indian friends, who have your best interests at heart, and know how to bargain properly.

Some of the top sights in India also practice price discrimination between locals and foreigners. Many places, including the Taj Mahal ,the Labagh Botannical Garden, Tipu Sultan’s Palace, and Mysore Palace, charge a cheap price for a ticket for locals and then over 5 times as much for foreigners! In the USA, this would probably be illegal and discrimination, but in India, I guess they just assume if you visit you have the money to spend, and try to take the most of it. So not fair!

But you want to know what the saddest, most messed up thing about India is? The beggars, especially the freaking child beggars. Do you know why they are there? If the poor kids are lucky, they are merely “rented’ from their families for a while to give begging more “credibility”. But many of them are kidnapped from their homes at an early age. Around 60,000 children each year are literally stolen from their homes by the Mafia, and then forced to work as beggars. They are purposefully kept looking thin and sick, and criminals even go so far as to purposely disable them, cutting out the child’s eyes, throwing acid in his/her face, or/and cutting off limbs. Sometimes, the mafia even pays “doctors” to disfigure the children! To prevent kids from escaping, the kidnappers often keep them addicted to drugs, such as opium. I know it’s not just in India, but these beggars are one of the most disturbing, fucked up things about India, and if you think about it too much, it almost makes you cry. Just so disgusting and wrong on so many levels! Does no one care? Will the Indian government do nothing to help? But as much as you want to help these poor kids, don’t give them money, because all you are doing is enabling child trafficking, and filling the Mafia’s pockets. See, the kids never get this money, the Mafiosi reap the profits because they then take this money from the kids! So no matter how many kids get in your face as you walk the streets and touch your arm, no matter how many literally start banging on your car windows as you sit in the car, no matter how sick, or pitiful they look, just ignore them. It sounds heartless and sick, but at least your money isn’t going into mafia pockets! Tourists can’t help these kids, only the government can take measures to outlaw this shit, and arrest the criminal thugs child trafficking. Don’t believe me? See for yourself, and read this:

Anyways, if you think about child trafficking in India too much, it might well ruin your vacation, so let’s put it in the back of our mind and try to move on, shall we? Let’s discuss something hectic and crazy, Indian traffic! Indian drivers are crazy! They somehow manage to turn a 2-lane road into 4 lanes of traffic. There is so much congestion, and yet Indians break the rules all the time. Running red lights, weaving in and out of traffic, cutting other cars off. Sometimes, when there is a traffic jam on one side of the highway, Indian drivers literally go to the other side of the road, and take up a lane, driving in the opposite direction, to beat the traffic! So imagine you are peacefully minding your own business, just driving on the highway when, bam, a whole row of cars are heading the other way on the lane right next to you….scary stuff!

And it’s not just cars! There are rickshaws (cheap taxis), motorcycles, cars, random pedestrians just jaywalking all over the roads, and even the occasional cow just minding its own business, wandering right in the middle of the roads (fun fact—it is a federal offense to hit a car with your vehicle; rubbing its head, however, supposedly brings good luck)! An Indian road is truly a side to behold! You got all kinds of cars, from expensive German and Japanese ones to $2,000 Tatas, Muslim women riding motorcycles in full burqas, Indian women sitting unsafely sideways in the back because they are wearing saris (a long, Indian dress), guys riding 3 at a time on motorcycles, and even motorcyclists holding random stuff like stoves or TVs, while someone else drives their bikes. The traffic is so hectic, you feel like any second someone will crash, but somehow the Indians make it work! Well, most times, at least, we did see some accidents, and heard about others. It’s truly a side to behold, and to believe it, one must see the roads with their own eyes!

As a matter of fact, driving in India is so hectic, that even the Indians themselves often don’t dare try! If you rent a car, it comes with its own driver. Even if you have your own car, and you want to travel to another city, you hire a driver. For example, my friend’s girlfriend and her friends have their own car. But to drive from Mumbai to Goa, they hired their own driver, who then drove us around in Goa! Besides driving, it is also scary to cross the road, because you have to jaywalkacross multiple lanes of traffic, and aggressively signal cars to stop, as you cross. It almost feels like you’re in a game of “Frogger”! The first couple of times I tried crossing the road in Bangalore, I am embarrassed to admit that my friend literally held my hand! Once, I even almost got hit by a bus, literally feeling the wind as it passed by. But, just like the locals, eventually I got used to the chaos. I even worked up the courage to drive in Mumbai, surviving a jaywalker, a car on the wrong side (coming toward me) of the road, and having no clue where the heck I was going!

One of the coolest things about India is the amount of diversity. The country has a Hindu majority, yet also hosts the 2nd largest Muslim population, at 120 million strong, only behind Indonesia, and is also the birthplace of Buddhism; there are also Christian and even Jewish minorities. I found myself exploring Hindi temples, as well as going inside mosques. Every morning at 4:30 AM and afternoon at 4:30 PM, the Islamic call to prayer, called an Adhan, is called out by the muezzin (an imam), which  sounds out from the minarets. The first couple of nights, I was annoyed by this because it woke me up from my hangovers in the early morning, but I soon got used to the sound. Actually, the Adhan helped me know the time, as my phone did not show the correct time, I officially had no idea what time it is….except for 4:30 AM and 4:30 PM! Next to the temples and the mosques, there are a bunch of churches, decked out in Christmas lights and all. It’s pretty cool how in a world of extremism and cultural, racial, and religious conflicts, the Indians manage to coexist mostly in peace, something many other countries can learn from India!

So far, I’ve been discussing what is common all across India. But what is different about the 4 cities I’ve visited, Bangalore, Agra, Goa, and Mumbai? Quite a lot! It’s almost as if I was in 4 different countries!

Bangalore

Of all the cities I visited, I spent the longest, 6 days, in Alok’s hometown, Bangalore. Of all the Indian cities, this one has the narrowest streets and the most hectic traffic. Also known as Bengaluru, it was founded in 1537 by Kempe Gowda. Originally, the city was not supposed to exceed the limits past the La Bagh Botannical Gardens, but as it grew, it did. This in turn sometimes causes water shortages or flooding during the monsoon season.

The city is also the beer capital in India, with 12 independent breweries, which are basically pretty sweet bars. Large drink selections of good, local beers, excellent party music, and a fantastic opportunity to have a great time! One can get discounts for the bars, and other entertainment venues by purchasing a “Blue Book”, which has coupons on drinks and food, and saved me about 30% of my money. Definitely better than the bars in Boston! Unfortunately for the independent Indian brewers, they are only allowed to sell their beers on premises, not in stores. This is because the primary beer maker in India, Kingfisher, gives nice kickbacks to the politicians to ban competition. Despite the enormous amount of tax revenue selling more beers would generate, despite providing more quality choices of beer to Indians, many politicians are corrupt, and accept bribes and kickbacks in exchange for allowing Kingfisher to create a beer monopoly. Whether Indian or American, our politicians are really not much different, ehh? Just a bunch of egoists looking out for their own interests, instead of the people they serve…

Some of the best stuff to see in Bangalore include:
·         The Bangaluru Palace -built by Reverend Garrett, the first principal of the Central High School (Central College as of 1862). It is modeled under the Windsor Castle in England. In 1952, it was renovated by Srikanta Wadiyar, a Prince form the Kingdom of Mysore. It's pretty cool. Lots of sweet illustrations and photos, and a beautiful courtyard to relax outside, while enjoying the view. Kinda expensive, though, they even charge you $12 extra to take photos! But definitely worth seeing!

·         Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens--3/4th the size of New York's Central Park, this is a serene place to explore and relax in. Lots of old trees (including the ones that you make pencils out of), plants, and a nice, peaceful lake. A main attraction is the Rose House, with its flower shows, but unfortunately those begin in February; apparently, while I am in India at the best time to enjoy the weather, flowers bloom at the beginning of monsoon season! There are all kinds of trees here, ranging from palm trees, to those you make pencils out of to, shockingly, even pine/Christmas trees! With a pond around the area and fountains, it is a serene, peaceful place, great for a walk or a date. The best part of the gardens, is the interactions with wildlife, though. There friendly macaque monkeys, stray dogs, and cows The macaques, in particular are awesome…just give them something to eat or drink, and they will climb on your head to eat and hang out!

·         Hindi temples...Ganesha Temple (dedicated to Elephant God) and the Bull Temple (dedicated to Nandi Bull, the vehicle of Lord Shiva). I won't go into lots of detail because I don't know much about Hinduism, and shall not talk about things I do not really know much, out of respect, but it was interesting to see how the people worship. You take off your shoes, go to the altar, give money to the priests (in yellow-and red togas), who then give you sweets and even the Bindi (the Hindi red dot, a symbol representing wisdom, and said to help retain energy and improve concentration). There are cool statues idols to the gods.

·         Tipu’s Summer Palace—a king of Mysore, which included Southern India, which Bangalore is a part of, was renowned for his intense hatred of the Brits, with whom he fought 4 wars (won the first 2, but lost the next 2). His summer residence in Bangalore is a sight to behold. Beautiful gardens outside, and a throne on a balcony inside. A fierce opponent of the Brits, he even built a harmonica where a tiger is eating a helpless British soldier (inspired by the death of the British soldier, son of a general, who was mauled by a Tiger in India).

·         Mysore Palace—a couple of hours’ drive from Bangalore, but probably the best site to see! Located in the city of Mysore, it was the official residence and seat of the Wodeyars — the Maharajas of Mysore, the former royal family of Mysore, who ruled the  Mysore from 1399 to 1950. After you manage to find parking and jaywalk across 4 streets full of oncoming traffic without dying, and after jostling with thousands of visitors to actually get a ticket and get into the building, you will find yourself facing beautiful courtyards, gardens, and meeting places to receive guests. The arching architecture is stunning, and a great example of how Indians build palaces. At night, it lights up, much like the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin, and is just an amazing site to look at.

·         The Vidhana Soudha--this is where the legislature of the Kernataka (the state that Bangalore belongs to) sits. There are 224 MPs. It's a very fancy building from the outside....and unfortunately, this is the only place I've seen it from.  This is because the politicians are on vacation...just like our American ones! See, I told you, that our politicians, wherever they are in the world, are not so different, after all!

·         Karnataka High Court--this is Karnataka's Supreme Court is the highest court outside of Delhi (which is the equivalent of the American Supreme Court). It is very big, and very red! Unfortuantely, just as with the Vidhana Soudha, I was unable to go inside. Is everyone on vacation right now, including me?


Agra

To get to Agra, we first had to drive there from the Delhi Airport, about a couple hours’hour drive that turns into a full 4 hours due to the intense fog. At first glance, the drive from Delhi to Agra looks almost like an American road. Wide roads, mostly cars on the street, and nice houses on the side of the road…but looks can be deceiving!

We arrived at our hotel around 9 PM. It was cold…about maybe the mid 40s, not much warmer than in Boston. (all other Indian cities I’ve visited were in the 70s-80s). Everything in Agra apparently closes after sunset, 7 PM, for some reason, and it seems like this extends to our hotel services! Despite asking for a heater, we never got one, and had to freeze in our rooms. It was too cold to take a shower, and we ended up sleeping in our sweatshirts, which must have been the only time I’ve ever actually did this indoors! Even the food was horrible…just a cold, miserable night!

But our misery was totally worth it. The next morning, we woke up nice and early to go see one of the must-see sights, in India, the Taj Mahal, one of the “new 7 Wonders of the World”, according to online voting. Built by the Muslim emperor Shah Jahan in 1648, as a tribute to his 3rd wife, after she died after the birth of their 14th child, it is a mausoleum made entirely of white marble, and is widely renowned as the “the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world's heritage". And what a stunningly beautiful site it is! You absolutely gotta go see the Taj at sunrise! When you do, admire the gleam from the rising sun, as it reflects on the white marble, making it gleam in gold. Check out the carefully hand-crafted decorations inside the Taj, too! But If you go on December, as I did, though, beware that especially in the morning, it might be foggy and cold, not the best circumstance to see beautiful architecture, but yet so worth it! By the middle of the day, you can just sit for hours, as Nikhil and I did, admiring the serenity and beauty of the site in peace, and just chill and relax, heck, even hoardes of monkeys, which we saw, do it! It’s just such a chill place; if you ever take your girlfriend travelling, take her there, it’s not exactly the same as building her a freaking Wonder of the World, but she will still be impressed!

Besides the Taj, there is a mosque (where Muslims still come and pray today), a large reflecting pool leading up to the Taj, and gardens filled with flowers. You can go inside the mosque and see for yourself. Outside the mosque, on the front steps, I was surprised to find the floor decorated with Stars of Davids! What is this, a tribute to Jews? As much as I’d like to think so, perhaps it’s just a tribute to the Jewish Egyptian philosopher Philo, whose two superimposed triangles, pointing both up and down, “symbolized the flow of energy between action and reception, male and female, God and humanity, and the upper and lower worlds.”

Besides the Taj Mahal site , the only other site worth checking out in Agra is the Agra Fort. A UNESCO heritage site(which means it’s historically protected), it is basically a walled city, complete with rooms for guests, pools, and even a small mosque. It is fun to walk around this fort with a self-guided audio tour, checking out the sites and listening to the fort’s history. One of the fort’s gate, the Delhi Gate, is still used by India’s military today, so tourists unfortunately cannot enter it, but we can see everything else! Shah Jahan’s son, Aurangzeb, imprisoned his father in this fort, where he sadly watched the Taj Mahal that he built, never getting out until his death. No matter what father-son drama going on there, what kind of son locks his dad up? Pretty messed up! The fort was also the site of the site of the battle of the Indian Rebellion of 1867, which caused direct British rule imposed on India until their, and Pakistan’s, independence in 1947.

Nikhil and I stayed in Agra for 1 day and 2 nights…..you don’t wanna stay more than that, really, unless you are OK with going bored out of your mind at night. Fortunately, the 2nd night finally got our heater, which we had to tip for. Yes, we actually had to pay for a service that should have already been included! Crazy, eh? After finally sleeping warmly, we woke up early morning again to begin the drive back to Delhi. And DAMN! Everything was covered in fog! You literally could not see more than a foot in front of you! The ride was basically like some highway to hell, barely seeing the road in front of you, while to the side all you see is gray, no buildings, no people, nothing, it’s as if everything to the sides, behind, and even before you has no life. Not sure how people even drive in such heavy fog, but somehow, in just 4 hours, we safely made it to the airport, and onward to Goa!

Goa

Up until Goa, the purpose of this trip, besides hanging out with friends, for me, was checking out the sites, familiarizing myself with the culture and just talking to the locals and see how they lived. Goa, though, was party time! As in Vegas, let’s just say whatever happens in Goa stays in Goa, thus why I have so few pictures from there. But I’ll divulge what I can.

On the plane to Goa, I came with some Hangover-themed rules, ‘Gorny’s Goa Commandments’….”Thou shalt not get arrested”; “Thou shalt not have missing limbs or people”; “Thou shalt not have a face tattoo”; “Thou shalt not get roofied”; “With these exceptions, thou shalt party like you’re in the Hangover!” And you know what? Other than briefly missing a couple of people (no worries, they made it home safe, though their cabbie did ask the 2 males if they “like big bananas”….awkward!), we had a grand old time.

In Goa, a former Portuguese colony, and the smallest Indian state, we enjoyed the beautiful beaches….while drinking, and swimming, and paragliding, of course. This despite the fact that the Indian government has recently declared the water at Goa as “unfit for swimming”! Oops, oh well….YOLO, right? We worked on our tan, while destroying our livers. Some of us learned to drive mopeds, which we crashed in 5 minutes. There were lots of international people in Goa, Germans, French, Brits, Japanese, but especially lots of Russians! I made friends with a Russian couple, as well as with this cute chick who is one of only 4% of Russians who either dislike Putting or think that he is a “despot” (Putin has a 96% approval rating in Russia, apparently.)

So, what did we do on New Year’s? Throw down over a grand for a nice, relaxing beachside party at Goa’s posh Club Chronicle, on Vagator Beach. Just mixing drinks and popping champagne bottles and dancing and having a jolly good time. But this cost us. Some of us started New Year’s just barely surviving dying from alcohol poisoning. Others brought in the first night of 2015 puking all over the villa’s restroom. Those of us who were lucky had diarrhea for a day. Others nearly got arrested for playing catch with fake candles. In other words, a New Year’s to remember, and a very fun night! What’s better than bringing in the New Year with some of your best friends, going swimming in the pool, getting drunk by the beach, and dancing the old year away?

Even when sober, we still had our share of issues. The girls stayed in one room of the villa, only to get locked in the next morning! It took us over 3 hours to get them out, and they decided to stay in the other villa for the remainder of the trip. Then, that same day, one of the mopeds locked out, causing delays. The one incident I was involved in was the weirdest and happened the next day. Our car just popped a tire, the driver was unable to get it fixed himself, so he ended calling for help. Meanwhile, the nice old lady whose house was next to our broken-down car, with Christmas lights, a friendly dog, and “Merry Christmas and Happy New Year” banners, received a sad call…someone in her family was just involved in a horrible car accident and was rushed the hospital! We couldn’t drive the poor sobbing lady to the hospital, so we did give her money for the taxi. I wonder what happened to her, hopefully her family member will make a full recovery! The whole situation was just kinda creepy. It’s as if your bad luck got transferred onto her, or something. We were glad to get out of there as soon as our car was fixed!

Mumbai

My trip ended at my final destination, Nikhil’s hometown, Mumbai. Right as we took a taxi to his house things got…interesting. Our cabbie almost hit a rickshaw, and despite there being no accident, the 2 guys started arguing, almost got into a fight, and actually had to be restrained by the cops! Thankfully, nothing happened and we made it to our destination just fine. Speaking of taxis, in Mumbai they actually put the luggage on the roofs of the cars, because the trunks have gas tanks inside! Interesting but OK…

Mumbai, the most populous city, with a population of over 20 million people (!!) is renowned for its long traffic jams and people just hanging off trains and buses. Thankfully, though, I did not participate in these traffic jams because Nikhil knows his city well enough to know when to avoid traffic and which roads to take, so huge kudos to him! He says that Mumbai is dirty and polluted, and this is probably true, but honestly, I didn’t notice much of this. Mumbai is by far the most modern, Western-style city from all the ones I’ve visited in India. While in Bangalore, the girls at the bars mostly wore jeans (and there were lots of women walking around in saris and hijabs, and burqas), the girls in Mumbai wear mini-dresses or mini skirts, dance provocatively, and actively use Tinder. Basically, a bar in Bombay (Mumbai’s old name) is pretty much indistinguishable from one in Boston!

I heard stories of people literally hanging of the sides of trains or buses. I didn’t get the chance to see the trains, but I did see a bus! And dang, it’s crazy! People literally grab on to anything they can and just hold on for real life! Buses packed to the brim, with people just hanging out! Do these people not fear falling off and dying! Crazy, crazy, crazy!

What are some sites worth checking out in Mumbai? The Grand Central Train Station is, well, grand, as in very large, and very beautiful. Just an impressively huge building. The Gateway to India, right on the Arabian Sea is so colorful and pretty at night, as is the Haji Ali Dajah, a mosque filled with stories of doomed lovers, and even a tomb! The Taj Mahal Hotel (nowhere near the actual Taj Mahal) is a gorgeous 5-star hotel, and even affordable in January, at “just” $300 a night. It was one of 3 targets in the 2008 terror attacks, where Pakistanis terrorists shipped themselves from Pakistan to Mumbai via the Arabian Sea and killed 167 people at this hotel, mostly foreigners. Never forget, and RIP! Finally, there are the Elephanta Caves, which despite their names actually have no elephants, though they do have cows, ox, and many monkeys! The caves are Hindu shrines, filled with all types of idols, statues of gods and goddesses. To get to the island, you take a one-hour ferry ride, where you enjoy looking at downtown Mumbai from the waterfront, as well as spot Indian warships, oil tankers, and your average Indian fishermen.

Getting Home---a Flying Nightmare

I had a great time in India. Alas, all good things must come to an end….or do they? On Sunday at 4 AM Indian time, I was supposed to fly out of Mumbai to Abu Dhabi via Etihad Airlines, then on to New York, and finally, to Boston. Except, the flight got fogged out! They would seat anyone who had their final destination at Abu Dhabi, but no one else! My flight was outright cancelled!

It is after this that I learned what a horrible airline Etihad truly is. Don’t be fooled by their good food and wide movie selection! While trying to find a way to get home, we were told to call a number, except no one picked up the phone. I tried to ask Etihad to rebook me with a different airline, and they straight up lied to me, saying that there were no seats available. Despite that the next morning I found seats going for over $3,500 ONE WAY!....a grand more than I laid ROUND TRIP! Etihad also put us up in a hotel and told us that they would tell the hotel at 6:30 AM what we should do next. Except they didn’t. Or next day at 6:30 AM. Or next day at 2 PM.

Seeing that I would clearly be getting nowhere with Etihad, I took an alternative flight….huge kudos to Nikhil for helping me get one for under $2,000! First I flew from Mumbai to Delhi, where my bag came in on a different flight from Mumbai. Apparently, when you fly domestically with Air India, it doesn’t matter what flight your bags are on…they can be on any plane going to the same destinations! Then, my flight from Delhi to New York got delayed by 3 hours. The first 2, there was a duplicate seat issues, they booked the same seats forn different people! Then, our route was made longer by an hour because Pakistan and Afghanistan closed down their airspace…not that I’m complaining not flying over those countries!

Long story short, I was supposed to arrive in Boston at 9:30 PM on a Sunday, get a good night’s sleep, and then go to work. What happened is I got into Boston at 2:30 PM on a Tuesday, and jetlagged and exhausted, went straight to work, luggage and all! For my commitment, I was allowed to only burn one, instead of 1.5 vacation days!

What’s happening with Etihad? They said they’ll reimburse me for the return flight I booked with them originally, $1,260, though I’m still waiting for them to do so. Also, they gave me a $140 gift card….less than a flight from New York to Boston! Thanks to them, I’ve lost overt $600. But I’m not done fighting them yet! But from now on, American or European flights only for me!

Random Facts and Observations
·         When tolls are paid in India, instead of 1 rupie, they sometimes give a chocolate candy instead! LOL it’s cheaper, since the government buys these in bulk!
·         80% of Indian marriages are arranged.
·         When visiting Hindi temples, mosques, or famous sites, take off your shoes. It’s so dirt does not get brought in into those buildings.
·         The left hand is considered the hand you wipe your ass with (huh? I always wipe mine with my right hand), and is thus considered “unclean.” Don’t eat with your left hand, and especially don’t offer your left hand to shake, even if you’re a leftie!
·         A lot of Indian women do this really cute headshake, up, down, side to side.
·         When crossing an Indian road, signal for the cars to stop, and keep walking. The aggressive and the bold always win!
·         Don’t eat the street food, unless you want diarrhea.
·         It is a federal offense to hit a cow with your vehicle.
·         If you run over someone, I’ve been told to RUN. Don’t stop, or the locals might beat you up!
·         Keep your wallet near your balls, so no one steals it.
·         I’m apparently a decent dancer when buzzed, and can even breakdance! But only when buzzed, not drunk, and certainly not sober!

·         Never fly with Etihad Airlines….ever!